Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [438]
Mano’s tourist information office (55-3589; 9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct), located at the junction of Rtes 350 and 65, can provide information on hikes and temples in the near vicinity.
The entrance to a peaceful 7km-long nature trail is located just west of Konpon-ji along the Minami bus route between Ryōtsu and Sawata, near the Danpū-jōbus stop. From the trailhead, it’s a short walk to Myōsen-ji (admission free; 9am-4pm), which was founded by one of Nichiren’s disciples, and features a distinctive five-storey pagoda.
The trail then passes through rice fields and up old wooden steps set into the hillside to Kokubun-ji (admission free; 8am-4pm), Sado-ga-shima’s oldest temple, dating from AD 741. Another 3km takes you past marvellous lookout points to Mano Go-ryō, the tomb of Emperor Juntoku.
From there, it’s a short walk down to Sado Rekishi Densetsukan (55-2525; admission ¥700; 8am-5.30pm Apr-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Mar), where more tireless robots illustrate dioramas of Sado’s history and festivals. Next door is Mano-gū, a small shrine dedicated to Emperor Juntoku. It’s a 15-minute walk back to the main road.
Regular buses run on the Minami line between Mano and Ryōtsu (¥630, 45 minutes), and between Mano and Sawata (¥260, 13 minutes). There are also regular buses between Mano and Ogi (¥810, 50 minutes).
Ogi
Although it’s the famed home of the Kodo Drummers, Ogi is little more than a minor port that sees much less ferry traffic than Ryōtsu. During the Earth Celebration, Ogi does become something of a heaving metropolis, though for the rest of the year it’s a drowsy village, home to some unique tourist attractions.
The tourist office (86-3200; 9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct) is a few minutes’ walk west of the bus terminal.
For Japanese visitors, Ogi is famous for its taraibune, which are boats made from huge barrels that are rowed by women in traditional fisher folk costumes. In the olden days, they were used for collecting shellfish, though today they’re mainly used for giving rides (¥450, 10 minutes, from 8.30am to 4.30pm) to tourists. Tickets are available at the marine terminal.
If you want to cover a bit more ground, you can take a sightseeing boat (¥1400, 45 minutes, from 8.30am to 4.30pm April to November) on a circle tour that runs from the marine terminal to the Sawa-zaki lighthouse and back.
For travellers who are more independent, the coastal areas in these parts are riddled with remote caves and coves, which can be accessed either by bike or rental car.
If you’re catching a ferry back to Honshū, the Minshukū Sakaya (86-2535; fax 86-2145; 1991 Ogi-chō; r per person incl 2 meals ¥7350; ) is conveniently located just a few minutes’ walk east of the Ogi ferry terminal. It’s a fairly basic and unassuming spot, but the seafood dinners are delicious and the staff is delightful.
While it’s certainly a bit bleak from the exterior, the five-storey Hotel New Kihachiya (; 86-3131; www.kihachiya.com, in Japanese; 1935-21 Ogi-chō; r per person incl meals from ¥10,000; ) in the centre of town is a surprisingly upmarket spot. Large and lovely Japanese- and Western-style rooms – some with sea views – are complemented by a sparkling onsen and a large dining room hosting nightly formal feasts.
Regular buses run on the Ogi line between Ogi and Sawata (¥910, 1¼ hours) via Mano (¥810, 50 minutes).
For detailed transport information on accessing Ogi and Sado-ga-shima by ferry, see opposite.
Aikawa
From a tiny hamlet, Aikawa grew almost overnight into a 100,000-person boomtown when gold was discovered nearby in 1601. Private mining amidst some incredibly rough and rugged conditions continued until the end of the Edo period. Today, this dwindling town is a fraction of its former size and significance.
There’s a small tourist information centre (74-2220; 9am-5.30pm Apr-Oct) beside the bus terminal.
From Aikawa bus terminal, it’s a 40-minute walk up a steep mountain (buses run occasionally in the high season) to