Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [439]
It takes around 30 minutes to return on foot down the mountain road to Aikawa. On the way you’ll pass several temples and Aikawa Kyōdo Hakubutsukan (74-4312; Sakashita Machi; admission ¥300; 8.30am-5pm), a folk museum with more exhibits putting face and shape to the old mine town.
Along the town’s southern waterfront is the Hotel Ōsado (; 74-3300; www.oosado.com; 288-2 Aikawakabuse; r per person incl meals from ¥9000; ), where you can soak up sunsets over the Sea of Japan while you soak away in a rotemburo. Accommodation is in a variety of different Western- and Japanese-style rooms, the best of which are also awash with ocean views.
Regular buses run on the Nanaura Kaigan line between Aikawa and Ryōtsu (¥780, one hour) via Sawata (¥390, 20 minutes).
Sotokaifu
Known as Sotokaifu, Sado’s rugged northern coast is a dramatic landscape of sheer sea cliffs dropping off into deep blue waters. Roads are narrow and windy, which lead to both harrowing bus rides and exhilarating coastal drives. Indeed, this is one area in Sado where having a rental car will make a big difference.
In order to truly appreciate the beauty of the region, you’re going to have to head out into the bay. During the summer months, glass-bottom boats depart from the village of Tassha (), and embark on a 30-minute cruise of Senkaku-wan (, ¥850).
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Rock Festivals in Japan Simon Bartz
Music lovers head to Japan in late July for the Fuji Rock Festival (www.fujirockfestival.com). There’s no better location than the ski resort in Naeba, Niigata Prefecture: mountains rise on both sides of a forested valley, littered with several stages. Here you’ll find foreign and home-grown rock, hip-hop, experimental jazz, techno, punk and reggae, all just a two-hour train ride from Tokyo.
More than 100,000 people attend Fuji Rock, and most camp up on a mountain as accommodation tends to be booked out. What to bring? You won’t need your skis so much as some sunscreen and, yes, sturdy boots. Most years see two days of blue skies and sun followed by rain. You may find yourself swimming in mud.
Held in late September, the two-day Asagiri Jam (www.asagirijams.org, in Japanese) festival is perhaps more deserving of the name ‘Fuji Rock Festival’ – it’s located in the beautiful foothills that surround Mt Fuji. Asagiri Jam is low-key, and the line-up isn’t announced beforehand. The emphasis is more on creating a good vibe rather than pulling in big names. Dub, techno, jazz and, of course, rock are featured. There are no hotels around here, so bring a tent or stay up all night.
The two-day Summer Sonic (www.summersonic.com, in Japanese) draws major international acts and is held during early August in Chiba, next to Tokyo, and Osaka. Chiba’s line-up plays the next day in Osaka, and vice-versa.
Then there’s the three-day Rock in Japan (www.rock-net.jp, in Japanese) festival, set in acres of green fields in Ibaraki Prefecture, a two-hour train ride from Tokyo. In many ways, this festival epitomises the Japanese music scene today – all performers are Japanese – and it spans J-Pop stars to ageing crooners.
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There are some wonderful youth hostels along this stretch of coast. In the fishing village of Iwayaguchi (), just south of the bus stop, you’ll find the Sotokaifu Youth Hostel (78-2911; fax 78-2931; 131 Iwayaguchi; dm from ¥3360, breakfast/dinner ¥760/1260; ), which is a traditional Sado-style house that has been converted into a very chilled-out accommodation spot.
Another great option is the Sado Belle Mer Youth Hostel (75-2011; http://sado.bellemer.jp, in Japanese; 369-4 Himezu; dm from ¥3360, breakfast/dinner