Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [440]
A few daily buses run on the Kaifu line between Iwayaguchi and Aikawa (¥1010, 70 minutes).
Getting There & Away
Sado Kisen (03-5390-0550) passenger ferries and hydrofoils run between Niigata and Ryōtsu. There are up to six regular ferries daily (one way from ¥3170, 2½ hours). As many as 10 jetfoils zip across daily in merely an hour (one way/return ¥6340/11,490), but service is greatly reduced between December and February. Before embarking, you need to buy a ticket from the vending machines and to fill in a white passenger ID form.
From Naoetsu-kō, about 90km southwest of Niigata, there are ferry and hydrofoil services to Ogi, in the southwest part of Sado-ga-shima. Between April and late November, there are four or more ferry departures daily (2½ hours) and two hydrofoils (one hour). During the rest of the year, the hydrofoil service is suspended, and ferries run only twice daily. Fares are the same as for the Niigata–Ryōtsu service. From JR Naoetsu station, it’s a 10-minute bus ride (¥160) and then a 15-minute walk to the port.
Getting Around
Local buses are fine on the main routes, though services to other parts of the island are often restricted to two or three a day, and sharply restricted in the winter.
To explore less-touristed areas, car rental is desirable. There are numerous car-rental firms close to the Ryōtsu terminal; rates start from ¥7000/9000 per day/24 hours. Tell the proprietor your plan, as construction, unpassable bridges or snow may mean the map’s routes are unavailable.
If you plan to make extended use of local buses, there’s an English-language timetable available from the ferry terminals and tourist information offices. The ¥2000 unlimited-ride bus pass, also in English, is a good-value option valid for two consecutive days on weekends only.
Cycling is an enjoyable way to get off the beaten track. Bicycle rental is available at various locations in all major towns (per day ¥400 to ¥1500).
Return to beginning of chapter
NAEBA
025
Home to the Fuji Rock Festival and some of Tōhoku’s best skiing, Naeba is a little town with a lot going on.
Naeba is also connected to the ski resort Tashiro () by one of the world’s longest gondolas (5481m!), which means that you sort of get two ski resorts for the price of one. The Dragondola (; return ¥2000), as it is called, can speed up to eight people to dry, light powder that makes for great trips down the slopes for skiers of all skill levels. Snowboarders will also want to check out the biggest half-pipe within a day’s trip from Tokyo. Unfortunately, due to Naeba’s proximity to Tokyo, you may find long waits in lift lines and at the restaurants.
If you come in late July, the Fuji Rock Festival (www.fujirockfestival.com; admission from ¥42,000) is three-days of musical madness – like Woodstock, only with toilets and less mud – and up to 100,000 people show up to hang out, listen to great bands and enjoy the party atmosphere. While pricey, it’s like a trip to J-Mecca for music lovers.
All of the action in Naeba centres around the Prince Hotel Naeba (; 789-2211; fax 789-3140; www.princehotels.co.jp/naeba; San-goku; r per person incl 2 meals & lift ticket from ¥14,000; ), a monolithic ski resort that caters to your every whim and fancy, offering a range of luxury rooms and suites adjacent to a whole slew of restaurants and upmarket facilities. Prices vary considerably, and advanced reservations are essential. The best place to arrange tour packages is at any English-speaking travel agency in Tokyo (Click here). LAN cable internet available.
There are several hourly trains on the Jōetsu shinkansen between Tokyo and Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen (¥5980, 1½ hours), and between Niigata and Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen (¥5040, 55 minutes). Echigo-Yuzawa Onsen is connected to Naeba by regular local buses (¥1600, 40 minutes). Free shuttle buses to the Prince Hotel also run this route, though you will need to be a registered guest to take