Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [444]
And finally, no culinary account of Hokkaidō is complete without mention of Sapporo’s beloved jingisu-kan (), which was perhaps best summed up by British writer Alan Booth:
I ordered the largest mug of draft beer on the menu and a dish of mutton and cabbage, which the Japanese find so outlandish that they have dubbed it jingisu kan (Ghenghis Khan) after the grandfather of the greatest barbarian they ever jabbed at. The beer, as always, was about one-third froth, but a single portion of Ghenghis was so huge that it took an hour to eat – compensation for the loss of fluid ounces…
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Getting There & Away
Sapporo is the main hub of all Hokkaidō traffic, though Hakodate and other smaller cities also offer direct flights to many of Japan’s larger cities. Be sure to check internet deals or budget travel agencies for substantial discounts.
If you are coming from Tokyo, consider taking either the Hokutosei sleeper train or the more luxurious Cassiopeia to save time. Note that the shinkansen (bullet train) does not offer a service direct to Hokkaidō – take it as far north as Hachinohe, and then take the tokkyū (limited express) from there.
For more information on accessing Hokkaidō by train, Click here.
For those without Japan Rail (JR) Passes, domestic ferries are a low-cost alternative. They arrive at Hakodate, Otaru, Muroran and Tomakomai, all three of which are relatively close to Sapporo. For information on international ferries to Russia, see the boxed text.
Getting Around
Shaped a bit like the squashed head of a squid, Hokkaidō is often divided into five subprefectures: Dō-nan (southern), Dō-ō (central), Dō-hoku (northern), Dō-tō (eastern) and Tokachi.
Sapporo has flights to all major Hokkaidō locations, but rail, car or motorcycle are recommended as the island’s beauty is in its landscapes. With that said, distances in Hokkaidō can be deceiving, so make a point of travelling early on in the day, especially in the winter months.
Trains run frequently on the trunk lines, but reaching remote locations involves infrequent trains and pricey buses. The foreigner-only Hokkaidō Rail Pass is also available: a three-/five-day pass costs ¥14,000/18,000.
Within cities, buses are convenient and usually cheap. Ask about a norihō dai (all day) pass if you’re going to use them a lot – it’s often a substantial discount.
If you have brought an International Driving Permit (you must get it from your home country prior to arrival in Japan), renting a car or motorcycle may save time. Car-rental rates vary, but if you walk in off the street expect to pay about ¥7000 per day, plus the cost of fuel (which can certainly add up!).
For fans of greener ways to get around, Hokkaidō is a good place to tour by bike. Charida (bicycle riders) are a common sight on major roads. Rider houses or cycling terminals (Click here) are also cheap, common and great places to meet other cyclists as well as bikers.
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SAPPORO
011 / pop 1.89 million
Japan’s fifth-largest city, and the prefectural capital of Hokkaidō, Sapporo is a surprisingly dynamic and cosmopolitan urban centre that pulses with energy despite its extreme northerly latitude. Designed by European and American architects in the late 19th century, Sapporo is defined by its wide grid of tree-lined streets and ample public-park space, which contribute to the city’s surprising level of liveability. Even if you get cold easily, you can always get your energy back over a hot meal, a great proposition given Sapporo’s wholly deserved gastronomic reputation.
As the island’s main access point and transport hub, Sapporo serves as an excellent base for striking out into the wilds that lie just beyond the city limits. But, while it might be hard to resist the pull of Hokkaidō’s world-class national parks, especially after travelling this far north, don’t give Sapporo a quick pass – on the contrary, you’ll most definitely be surprised by how good life can be in the capital of the north country. Sapporo is a major tourist destination itself,