Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [445]
In February, the city also hosts the world-famous Snow Festival, which is highlighted by huge ice sculptures of everything from brown bears and tanuki to Hello Kitty and Doraemon.
History
Sapporo is one of Japan’s newest cities, and lacks the temples and castles found in its more southerly neighbours. However, it has a long history of occupation by the Ainu, who first named the area Sari-poro-betsu or ‘a river which runs along a plain filled with reeds.’
The present-day metropolis was once nothing but a quiet hunting and fishing town in the Ishikari Plain of Hokkaidō. While the Ainu were left alone until 1821, everything changed when the Tokugawa shōgunate (military government) created an official trading post that would eventually become Sapporo. The city was declared the capital of Hokkaidō in 1868, and – unlike much of mainland Japan – its growth was carefully planned. In 1880, Japan’s third major railway was constructed, linking Sapporo and the port city of Otaru.
In the 20th century Sapporo emerged as a major producer of agricultural products. Sapporo Beer (Click here), the country’s first brewery, was founded in 1876, and quickly became synonymous with the city itself. In 1972, Sapporo hosted the Winter Olympics, and the city’s annual Snow Festival, begun in 1950, attracts more than two million visitors.
In recent years, Sapporo has experienced something of a cultural and spiritual renaissance, especially as more and more youths are choosing to flee their lives in the Tokyo and Osaka areas in search of a new start.
Orientation
Sapporo, laid out in a Western-style grid pattern, is relatively easy to navigate. Blocks are labelled East, West, North and South in relation to a central point near the TV Tower in the city centre. For example, the famous landmark Tokei-dai (Clock Tower) is in the block of North 1, West 2 (Kita Ichi-jo, Nishi Ni-chōme) – N1W1. Ōdōri-kōen, a narrow grass-covered section ending at the TV Tower, is a major city feature, dividing the city east–west, into north–south halves. South of Ōdōri is the downtown shopping district with shops and arcades. Susukino, the club and entertainment district, is located mainly between the South 2 and South 6 blocks.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Kinokuniya (231-2131; N5W7 Chūō-ku, 5-7 Kita-Gojō-nishi, Chūō-ku) A stone’s throw from the south exit of JR Sapporo station. Look to the right as you leave; it’s across the street. Foreign books are on the 2nd floor.
Sapporo Municipal Central Library (; 512-7320; www.city.sapporo.jp/tosyokan/ht/english.html; S22W13 Chūō-ku; 9.15am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.15am-5pm Sat & Sun, closed every 2nd & 4th Wed) Several thousand English-language titles as well as newspapers and magazines. Take the Chūō-Toshokan-mae tram stop.
INTERNET ACCESS
Internet is also available at the tourist information centres (¥100, 10 minutes).
Comic Land (200-3003; 2nd fl, Hinode Bldg, S1W4 Chūō-ku; per 30min from ¥200; 24hr) Has showers and offers fixed fees as well as half-hourly rates.
i-café (221-3440; http://sapporocrh.i-cafe.ne.jp, in Japanese; N5W5 Gochōme 2-12, Chūō-ku; per 30min from ¥200; 24hr) Next to the station, with free snacks in addition to the usual coffee/drinks. Heading south, look to the right side, near Kinokuniya bookshop.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Dial 119 for a medical emergency. JR Sapporo and Sapporo City hospitals require that nonemergency patients arrive before noon.
JR Sapporo Railway Hospital (JR ; 241-4971; N3E1 Chūō-ku) Close to JR Sapporo station, but no emergency room.
Medical Plaza Sapporo (209-5410; N5W2 Chūō-ku) Conveniently located on the 7th and 8th floors of the JR Tower in JR Sapporo station. Open until 7pm.
Sapporo City General Hospital (; 726-2211; N11W13 1-1 Chūō-ku) Offers 24-hour emergency care as well as the usual gamut of health services.
MONEY
ATMs on the street