Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [448]
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SAPPORO BEER
Let’s face it: ‘Sapporo’ means beer. After visiting Germany (and being favourably impressed), Kihachirō Ōkura returned and selected Sapporo as the lucky place to start what would become Japan’s first beer brewery, founded in 1876.
Part museum and part beer garden, Sapporo Beer-En (; museum 731-4368, beer garden 0120-15-0550; www.sapporo-bier-garten.jp; N7E9 Higashi-ku; beer garden 11.30am-10pm, tours 9am-3.40pm) is located in the original Sapporo Beer brewery, almost due east of JR Sapporo station. Visitors wanting to belly up to the trough should take the free one-hour tour (recorded English commentary is provided), which includes a tasting (per beer ¥200), and most likely a slight buzz! The adjoining beer garden has four restaurants spanning a variety of cuisines – though purists should note that pints of frothy Sapporo were meant to be enjoyed with the local grilled lamb speciality, jingisu-kan (Genghis Khan). There is also a great little gift shop where you can snag a few reprints of nostalgic beer posters dating back to the early 20th century.
To get here take the Tōhō subway to the Higashi-Kuyakusho-mae stop and take Exit 4. Head south along Higashi-Nana-Chōme-dōri to N8E8 (about 10 minutes) and look to the left. The large brick chimney with the distinct Sapporo trademark star is unmistakable. The building itself is at N7E9. By bus, take the Chūō Bus Higashi 63 and get off at the Kitahachi Higashinana (N8E7) stop. The building will be right in front of you. Note that while tour reservations aren’t essential, they’re not a bad idea – if you don’t speak Japanese, ask tourist information or your hotel staff to phone ahead for you.
Diehard fans will want to take the 40-minute train ride out to the current brewing and bottling facility, Hokkaidō Brewery (; 0123-32-5811; Toiso 542-1 Eniwa-shi; tours 9am-3.30pm, irregularly closed). This mammoth production plant seems more like something out of a James Bond movie rather than a place where beer is made: technicians in white lab coats peer into test tubes; immaculate stainless-steel tanks are covered with computerised gauges and dials; and video cameras monitor the bottles as they whizz by. The 40-minute tour is self-guided and English is minimal, but you’ll be rewarded with a refreshing 20 minutes to tipple at the end. Admission is free, but you need to make reservations a few weeks in advance.
Take the JR Chitose line towards the airport, and get off at the Sapporo Beer Teien station. Head away from the tracks towards the giant white silos with the Sapporo logo; the entrance is a 10-minute walk away.
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The fascinating Sapporo Salmon Museum (; 582-7555; 2-1 Makomanai-kōen; www.sapporo-park.or.jp/sake/english/e_index.html; admission free; 9.15am-4.45pm Tue-Sun) is a tribute to one of the world’s most delicious fish. Check out more than 20 different species of salmon in varying stages of development, as well as a few odd salamanders, turtles and frogs. It’s located across the street from the Sapporo Winter Sports Museum – bring the kids!
The Hokkaidō Museum of Modern Art (;644-6881; N1W17 Chūō-ku; adult/student ¥450/220; 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a comprehensive collection of modern works by primarily Japanese artists. The museum is a few blocks north of Nishi-18-chōme station (exit 4) on the Tozai line.
Activities
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
With the famed Niseko just around the corner, true hard-core skiers aren’t too keen on spending any more time in Sapporo than they have to. But, if you want to practice a bit on the bunny slopes to perfect your moves before hitting the real mountains, there are ski slopes literally on the edge of the city.
Teine Highland (; 681-3191; www.sapporo-teine.com, in Japanese;