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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [449]

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day pass ¥4600; 9am-4pm) is a modestly sized affair with just over a dozen lifts and runs, though it’s certainly much more suited to families with children rather than true die-hard alpine extremists. Just 10 minutes from Sapporo by local train, Teine can get very, very crowded. It’s still a pleasant day out if you’re itching for some powder, or if you’re still getting used to your skis or snowboard. Frequent trains on the JR Hakodate line run between Sapporo and Teine (¥260, 10 minutes). From JR Teine station, shuttle buses conveniently whisk you back and forth to Teine Highland’s slopes.

Festivals & Events

Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (; Snow Festival; www.snowfes.com/english) Drawing more than two million visitors, the annual Sapporo Yuki Matsuri takes place in February, and is arguably one of Japan’s top festivals. The humble origins of the festival date back to 1950 when local high school students built six snow statues in Ōdōri-kōen. Five years later, the Japan Self-Defence Force from the nearby Makomanai base upped the ante by building the city’s first gigantic snow sculptures. By 1974, the event had grown into an international contest attracting teams from more than a dozen countries. Taking weeks and weeks to carve, past snow sculptures have included life-sized statues of Hideki Matsui, entire frozen stages for visiting musical acts, ice slides and mazes for the kiddies and – of course – the obligatory Hello Kitty statue or two. You can view these icy behemoths in Ōdōri-kōen as well as in other locations around the city. The Snow Festival also highlights the best in regional food and drink from across the island, and you can expect all kinds of wild and drunken revelry, particularly once the sun sets (at these latitudes, it’s quite early!). Finding reasonably priced accommodation can be extremely difficult, so book as far in advance as possible.

Ōdōri Nōryō Garden () The summer beer festival (mid-July to mid-August) is held in Ōdōri Kōen. Sapporo, Asahi and microbrewers set up outdoor beer gardens, offering a variety of beers and other beverages, as well as food and snacks.

Hokkai Bonodori () Families welcome back the spirits of the dead in mid-August. The festival provides viewers with glimpses of traditional songs, dances and summer yukata (light, cotton kimonos).

Sleeping

If you’re just looking for a place to crash in an emergency, internet cafes (Click here) are open 24 hours, offer reclining chairs and hot showers, and are often cheaper than even the cheapest of hotels. Love hotels in Susukino are another colourful if slightly promiscuous option, and are as clean as (or cleaner than!) budget hostels and hotels. Check in after 11pm for the lowest rates.

BUDGET

Capsule Inn Sapporo (251-5571; www.capsuleinn-s.com/english.html; S3W3-7 Chūō-ku; per person ¥3200) If you’re a man of simple needs that doesn’t suffer from claustrophobia, this XY-chromosome-only capsule hotel offers your standard berth plus a sauna, large bathroom, coin laundry and even a ‘book corner’ with reclining chairs. It’s located a stone’s throw from the Susukino subway station on the Nanboku line. Take Exit 1, go to the KFC and turn right on the side street – you should see the inn on the left, about halfway down. A 6am to 6pm ‘rest’ is also an option (¥1200).

Sapporo International Youth Hostel (; 825-3120; www.youthhostel.or.jp/kokusai; 6-5-35 Toyohira-ku; dm/s/tw from ¥3200/3800/6600; ) Housed in a surprisingly modern and stylish building that could give most business hotels a run for their money, this well-conceived youth hostel has perfected the basics by offering simple but sparkling rooms to budget travellers. Both Western- and Japanese-style private rooms are available, as well as so-called ‘dorm-rooms’ featuring four full-sized beds. The closest subway stop is Gakuen-mae (Exit 2) on the Toho line; the hostel is just two minutes from the station behind the Sapporo International Student Center. Note that twin rooms are only for married couples.

Ino’s Place (; 832-1828; http://inos-place.com/e/; dm/s/d from ¥3400/4800/8600; ) While

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