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By Root 4227 0

youth hostels in Japan are often stale and sterilised affairs with strict rules and little to no English on hand, Ino’s Place is a true backpackers’ spot with all the fixings. Friendly and bilingual staff are on hand to make your stay warm and welcome, while clean rooms, private lockers, free internet, no curfew, a steamy Japanese bath, laundry facilities, a kitchen and communal lounge space sweeten the deal. To reach Ino’s, take the Tōzai line to the Shiroishi stop (four past Ōdōri); take Exit 1 and walk straight for a few minutes along the main street in the direction of the Eneos petrol station. Turn right at the Marue supermarket and you’ll see a detached two-storey white building – you’ve arrived!

Sapporo House Youth Hostel (726-4235; www.youthhostel.or.jp/English/c_sapporohouse.htm; N6W6-3-1 Kita-ku; dm from ¥3750; ) Although it’s conveniently located just a few minutes on foot west of the JR Sapporo station, it’s also annoyingly located just beside the train tracks. Noise is a factor, and the dorm rooms here are much older than previously listed options, though it’ll certainly do in a pinch, especially if the Snow Festival is in town and vacancies are scarce.

MIDRANGE

Marks Inn Sapporo (512-5001; www.marks-inn.com/sapporo/english.html; S8W3 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥4500/6000; ) If you want private accommodation, you really can’t get cheaper than this business hotel on the edge of the Susukino entertainment district, right across from the canal. Rooms are a bit cramped, but the feathery beds are soft, and become even softer if you party too hard in Susukino, and stumble back in the wee hours of the morning. LAN cable internet available.

Tōyoko Inn Sapporo-eki Kita-guchi (728-1045; fax 728-1046; www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00066; N6W1-4-3 Kita-ku; s/d Nov-May ¥4800/6800, Jun-Oct ¥6800/8800; ) A convenient clutch of Tōyoko Inns grace the JR station environs, any of which is an affordable and reliable option for the night. One of the newer ones is this brown and grey tower block near the north exit, which considerably discounts its chock-a-block business rooms in the winter months. LAN cable internet available.

Nakamuraya Ryokan (241-2111, 241-2118; www.nakamura-ya.com/english.html; N3W7-1 Chūō-ku r per person high season from ¥7875, low season ¥7350; ) Located directly across from the botanical gardens, this charming little Japanese-style inn is a wonderful introduction to the pleasures of the island. A variety of different plans are available, featuring tatami rooms of varying shapes and sizes, as well as lavish feasts incorporating the unique flavours of Hokkaidō. All guests can also relax in the large onsite bath, and the owner-managers are well equipped to deal with the needs of foreigner travellers.

Keiō Plaza Hotel Sapporo (271-0111; www.keioplaza-sapporo.co.jp/english/index2.html; N5W7 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥7000/11,000; ) One of the more stylish options in this price bracket, the Keiō Plaza lies at the northeast corner of the botanical gardens, and boasts some impressive amenities including a full-sized swimming pool, sauna complex and athletic training room. Rooms increase in price as you ascend the tower, though you can easily stick to your budget by choosing a standard room on the 12th floor or below. LAN cable internet available.

Alternative Tōyoko options if the Kita-guchi hotel is full:

Tōyoko Inn Sapporo-eki Nishi-guchi Hokudai-mae (717-1045; fax 717-1046; www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00018; N8W4 Chūō-ku; s/d Nov-May ¥4200/6600, Jun-Oct ¥6200/8300; ) LAN cable internet available.

Tōyoko Inn Sapporo-eki Minami-guchi (222-1045; fax 222-1046; www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00059; N3W1 Chūō-ku; s/d Nov-May ¥4800/6800, Jun-Oct ¥6800/8800; ) LAN cable internet available.

TOP END

The following hotels can be booked in advance through their English-language websites; this is recommended as rates can dramatically increase if you just show up without a reservation.

Sapporo Grand Hotel (261-3311; fax 231-0388; www.grand1934.com/english/index.html; N1W4 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥14,000/17,000; ) Established in 1934 as the