Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [451]
Hotel Monterey Edelhof Sapporo (242-7111; fax 232-1212; www.hotelmonterey.co.jp/eng/index.htm; N2W1 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥17,000/32,340; ) A few minutes south of the station, opposite the JR Sapporo Railway Hospital, this seemingly modern hotel lords over the street like a concrete monolith, though the interior is fully decked out in a bizarre but surprisingly amenable Austrian-theme. While the opulent lobby and lavish rooms are Continental-inspired, the various dining rooms and onsen are Japanese through and through. LAN cable internet available.
JR Tower Hotel Nikko Sapporo (JR; 251-2222; fax 251-6370; www.jrhotelgroup.com/eng/hotel/eng101.htm; N5W2 Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥18,000/26,000; ) You can’t beat the location at this soaring tower, which is firmly attached to the JR Sapporo station. Taking advantage of such great heights, the Hotel Nikko Sapporo offers plush rooms priced by floor, a spa with a view on the 22nd floor, and both Western and Japanese restaurants perched at the top on the 35th floor. LAN cable internet available.
Eating
In addition to beer, Sapporo is famous for its miso-based rāmen (soup noodles), which makes use of Hokkaidō’s delicious butter and fresh corn. The city also serves up some truly incredible seafood, winter-warming stews and jingisukan, an easy-to-love dish of roasted lamb that pays tribute to everybody’s favourite Mongol warlord, Genghis Khan.
For a complete rundown of the island’s unique cuisine, see the boxed text.
One of the best places in town for sushi and sashimi so fresh it’s still twitching is the Nijō Fish Market – for more information, Click here.
For fussy eaters who like to window shop, head straight to Esta (7am-9pm), a giant restaurant floor that forms part of the Paseo Shopping Centre at JR Sapporo Station; one major path to the subway leads right through it. Listen for the singsong ‘Ikagadeshou~~ka?’ (Take a look?) and you’ll know you’ve arrived.
Rāmen Yokochō (11am-3am) This famous alleyway in the Susukino entertainment district is crammed with dozens of rāmen noodle shops, and you’ll most likely wind up here in a noble attempt to vanquish your hang-over. Anyone with a yen for rāmen shouldn’t miss it, but it can be difficult to find. Take the Nanboku line to Susukino and walk south to the first crossroad. Turn left (east); Rāmen Yokochō is halfway down on the right. If you can’t find it just ask – it’s one place people will know. Hours and holidays vary for different shops.
Kushidori (758-2989; www.sapnet.ne.jp/kusidori, in Japanese; N7W4-8-3, Kita-ku; skewers from ¥150, beer ¥500; 4.30pm-12.30am) A famous Sapporo-only chain serving a variety of yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) and grilled vegetables, Kushidori is usually packed with boisterous college kids and 20-somethings. While there is no English menu, you can simply point at what you want, and the chef will grill it for you – choose from either tare (sauce) or shio (salt). There are locations all around the city, including one just a few blocks north of JR Sapporo station (look for the English sign).
Hirihiri-dō (643-1710; N2-27-5W2 Nishu-ku; 2-27 5 chōme Kotoni Nijō Nishi-ku; soups from ¥850; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) A Sapporo staple, soup curry is an inventive way to warm the body and spice up your palette, especially on a blistery winter day. As its name implies, soup curry is quite simply a soupier version of Japanese curry – there is no English menu here, but it’s easy enough to trust your nose and point to the best-smelling vat. The restaurant is located just outside the JR Sapporo station’s west exit – look for the English sign that says ‘soup curry’.
Yosora-no-Jingisukan (219-1529; 10th fl, S4W4 Chūō-ku; plates from ¥850; 5pm-2.30am) Genghis Khan is on the menu