Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [452]
Shōjin Restaurant Yō (; 562-7020; S17W7-2-12 Chūō-ku; dishes from ¥1000; 11.30am-4.30pm Mon & Tue, 11.30am-8pm Thu-Sun) Macrobiotic, organic and vegan fare that’s attractively presented and very tasty. The shop is beautifully done with brown paper lanterns, a sushi-style bar and Zen-style flower arrangements – there is even an English menu to boot. To get here, take the Nanboku line and get off at Horohirabashi. Go left out of the station and veer right at the first traffic signal. The road curves, passing a park (on the right). Go straight through the next signal and turn left when you hit the next one (at the tram line); the restaurant is a few doors down on the right.
Kani-honke (222-0018; N3W2 Chūō-ku; set course from ¥3625; 11.30am-10pm) The frigid seas surrounding Hokkaidō are extremely bountiful and yield some of the tastiest crustaceans on the planet. There is no better place to dine on all manner of exotic crab than at the famous Kani-honke, which serves up elaborate kaiseki-ryōri (Japanese cuisine following strict rules of etiquette) centred on these juicy little critters. Seasonal set courses are priced according to the size and rarity of the crab, so simply choose depending on how much you want to spend.
Drinking & Entertainment
Sapporo-ites are famous for their love of the drink, though you can hardly blame them as the beer here really does seem to taste better. While there are literally hundreds of bars and clubs scattered throughout the city, all of the action and nightlife revolves around Susukino, the largest entertainment district north of Tokyo.
The places listed following are all within easy stumbling distance of the Susukino subway station, and are something of Sapporo party landmarks, though you can always simply follow the crowds to whatever is new and trendy. Generally, some bars and most clubs have a cover charge of ¥1000 to ¥3000 on Friday and Saturday nights, which often includes one or two drinks.
If you want to drink delicious Sapporo lager straight from the source, don’t miss Sapporo Beer-En – for more information, see the boxed text.
500 Bar (562-2556; 1st fl, Hoshi Bldg, S4W2 Chūō-ku; 6pm-5am Mon-Sat, 6pm-2am Sun & holidays) Usually packed, even on weekdays, with a mix of foreign and local clientele, every drink on the menu here is ¥500, hence the name (pronounced ‘gohyakubaa’). This is one of the franchise’s several locations in Sapporo, right across the street from the Susukino subway station’s Nanboku line.
Booty (521-2366; www.booty-disco.com; S7W4 Chūō-ku; 8pm-close) There’s plenty of booty to be had at this discotheque and lounge bar, which serves up Western-style fast foods alongside urban beats. The rotating schedule incorporates the best in hip-hop, R&B and reggae, which attracts a young and clubby crowd.
alife (533-6633; www.alife.jp/pc; B1F Tailki Bldg, S4W6 Chūō-ku; 8pm-close) This ultraplush and ubersophisticated club brings a bit of the Tokyo high life to the far north. Although the thermometer might be dropping outside, it’s always hot and heavy in this cavernous joint, so dress to impress!
Getting There & Away
AIR
Sapporo’s main airport is New Chitose Airport (; Shin-Chitose Kūkō), about 40km south of the city. Domestic destinations include Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya, Hiroshima, Sapporo and many others. Click here for details of international flights.
There’s a smaller airport at Okadama (; Okadama Kūkō), about 10km north of the city, which has limited service to cities in Hokkaidō.
BUS
Highway buses connect Sapporo with the rest of Hokkaidō, and are generally cheaper than trains and even time-competitive on some routes. Sapporo Eki-mae is the main bus station, just southeast of JR Sapporo station, beneath Esta. The Chūō bus