Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [456]
For a bird’s eye view, the modern Goryō-kaku Tower (Map;51-4785; 43-9 Goryōkakumachi; admission ¥840; 8am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov & Mar, 9am-7pm Dec-Feb) surveys the fort below and the surrounding city.
To reach the fort, take tram 2 or 5 to the Goryōkaku-kōen-mae stop. From there it’s a 10-minute walk.
AROUND HAKODATE
If you have your own car, Ōnuma Quasi-National Park () is just northeast of the city, and is centred on a large lake and surrounding swamplands that offers scenic canoeing, fishing and hiking. Many of the nearby hills have hidden hot springs, but finding them can be difficult – your best bet is to ask a local for directions to their favourite gem.
The historic Edo towns of Esashi and Matsumae are great day trips from Hakodate – for more information, Click here.
Festivals & Events
Hakodate Goryōkaku Matsuri () Held on the third weekend in May, this festival features a parade of townsfolk dressed in the uniforms of the soldiers who took part in the Meiji Restoration battle of 1868.
Hakodate Minato Matsuri (; Hakodate Port Festival) During this festival in early August, groups of seafood-fortified locals (reportedly 10,000 of them) move like waves doing an energetic squid dance.
Sleeping
Niceday Inn (Map; 22-5919; 9-11 Ōtemachi; dm from ¥3000) Near the Asa-ichi morning market, this petite hotel offers bunk-style rooms, and is run by a wonderfully welcoming matron. While you shouldn’t expect much more than a bed and a hot shower, it’s nevertheless a great place to pinch pennies. Niceday is directly opposite the Kokusai Hotel in a small, nondescript alley.
Hakodate Youth Guesthouse (Map; 26-7892; www12.ocn.ne.jp/~hakodate, in Japanese; 17-6 Hōraimachi; dm Oct-Jun ¥3800, Jul & Sep ¥4200, Aug ¥4500) Wholesome, family friendly accommodation complete with 9am homemade ice-cream parties and 11pm curfews, the Hakodate Youth Guesthouse is a relaxed and affordable base for budget travellers. It’s conveniently located near the Hōrai-chō tram stop – after getting off the tram, turn left at the first light, then go past two more lights and turn right. The guest house is across the street from a supermarket and car park.
Kokian (Map; 26-5753; 13-2 Suehirochō; r per person with/without meals from ¥8000/4000) Built in 1897, this well-preserved structure is a living example of Meiji-era architecture, complete with a Japanese-style facade and more Western-influenced inner chambers. Rooms are definitely on the smallish side, but are certainly not lacking in personality. Kokian is just a two-minute walk from Jūjigai tram station. You should walk three blocks towards the water (dock area) after getting off the tram; the inn is behind one of the old warehouses.
Tōyoko Inn Hakodate Eki-mae Asaichi (Map; 23-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com/e_hotel/00063/index.html; 22-7 Ōtemachi; s/d Nov-May ¥4600/6800, Jun-Oct ¥5600/7800; ) While it’s positively characterless in comparison to Kokian, this Tōyoko clone remains the best choice for business-orientated travellers in need of private space and reliable internet access. It’s located just steps away from the Asa-ichi market, and only three minutes’ walk from Hakodate station. LAN cable internet available.
Hakodate Kokusai Hotel (Map; 23-5151, 23-0239; www.hakodate-kokusai.jp; 5-10 Ōtemachi; s/tw ¥11,500/23,000; ) Hokodate’s premier hotel is a relatively modest affair in comparison to Sapporo’s upmarket offerings. Still, it’s a modern and well-heeled place, highlighted by its stylishly elegant Sky Lounge, which is the place to sip a late-night something – stop by even if you’re not staying here. Rooms are fairly generic; LAN cable internet is available.
Eating & Drinking
A trendy district for fine dining is Nishi-hatoba (Map), a waterfront district with a variety of eateries in converted warehouses and English-style buildings.
Asa-ichi (morning market; Map; 5am-noon) Located just to the right of Hakodate station, this market is a great place for hungry seafood-lovers. Like tightly packed ammo, freshly caught squid glisten in ice-stuffed