Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [457]
Hishī (Map; 27-3300; 9-4 Hōraichō; snacks from ¥525; 10am-5pm) Hishi-sabō, part cafe, part antique shop, is an unmistakable ivy-covered kura (mud-walled storehouse) that is situated just one block west from the Hoari-chō tram stop. Even if you are not in the market for a used kimono, you cannot go wrong with a cup of English tea and a tasty gourmet waffle (waffuru-setto ¥890) – go slow and take in the building’s 80-year-long history while you enjoy your snack.
Hakodate Rāmen Kamome (Map; 22-1727; 8-2 Wakamatsuchō; rāmen from ¥580; 6.30am-3.30pm) A famous noodle shop (look for the blue awning) where you can put your culinary skills to the test – start with a basic bowl of miso rāmen (¥580), and add kani (crab), ebi (shrimp), ika (squid), hotate (scallops) and/or uni (sea urchin roe) for a few hundred extra yen. The shop is located across the street from the fish market, so you know everything here is fresh.
Ryōuntei (Map; 54-3221; 8-20 Honchō; dishes ¥650-1250; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Not far from the Goryō-kaku tower is this izakaya (pub-eatery), which specialises in fresh seafood from the surrounding seas. Grab a seat at the counter or on the tatami, and order whatever looks good off the picture menu. Here’s a tip: anything with ika (squid) comes in fresh from the harbour, so give it try either raw or grilled.
Hakodate Beer (Map; 23-8000; 5-22 Ōtemachi; dishes from ¥650; 11am-10pm) Next to the Hakodate Kokusai Hotel, this expansive place has live music and boisterous crowds. Scan the English menu, and choose from a variety of microbrews – from cold ales and golden wheat beers to dark stouts – to complement homemade pizzas and various items from the grill.
Getting There & Away
AIR
From Hakodate airport, just a few kilometres east of the city centre, there are international flights to Seoul, and domestic flights to various destinations including Sapporo, Tokyo, Kansai and others.
Frequent buses run direct between Hakodate Airport and JR Hakodate station (¥300, 20 minutes), or you can simply take a taxi (¥2000).
BOAT
From Hakodate-kō, Higashi Nihon (0120-756-564) operates eight daily ferries (departing year-round) between Aomori and Hakodate (from ¥2150, 3¾ hours), and two to three daily ferries between Hakodate and Ōma (¥1370, 1¾ hours) on Shimokita-hantō. The ferry terminal, where you also buy your tickets, is on the northeast corner of Hakodate Harbour.
Regular shuttle buses (¥250, 15 minutes) as well as taxis (¥1500) run between the ferry terminal and the train station.
BUSES
There are five to six daily buses between JR Hakodate train station and Sapporo’s Chūō bus station and Ōdōri bus centre (¥4680, 5¼ hours).
For more transport details, also see Matsumae (right) and Esashi (opposite).
CAR
If you’ve just arrived in Hokkaidō, Hakodate is a good place to pick up a rental car and start your road-tripping adventure across the island. The recommended Toyota Rent a Car (Map; 26-0100; 19-2 Ōtemachi; 8am-8pm) has a branch office a few blocks southwest of the station, next to the Aqua Garden Hotel. Matsumae and Esashi are an easy-day trip from Hakodate if you have a rental car.
TRAINS
Frequent tokkyū on the JR Tsugaru Kaikyō line run between Hakodate and Aomori (¥5140, two hours) via the Seikan Tunnel (see the boxed text, opposite). There are also frequent tokkyū on the JR Hakodate line between Hakodate and Sapporo (¥8390, 3½ hours). Finally, a combination of tokkyū and kaisoku (rapid) trains run on the JR Hakodate line between Hakodate and Niseko via Oshamambe (¥5410, 3½ hours).
For information on trains between Hakodate and Tokyo, Click here.
Getting Around
Single-trip fares on trams and buses are generally between ¥200 and ¥250, and are determined by how long you ride. One-day (¥1000) and two-day (¥1700) passes offer unlimited rides on both trams and buses (¥600 for tram alone), and are available at the tourist information centre or from the drivers. These passes are also good for the bus to