Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [462]
Further east are Kutchan () and Niseko () proper, which are more permanent population centres that remain decidedly Japanese. While there is a JR Hirafu station, it is far from the town and poorly serviced by infrequent buses. As a result, incoming passengers on the train disembark at either JR Kutchan or JR Niseko stations, and then switch to local buses. During the ski season, there are also direct buses connecting the Welcome Centre in Hirafu village to Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport.
To the east of the valley lies Yōtei-zan (), a perfectly conical volcano reminiscent of Fuji-san. Yōtei-zan draws its fair share of hikers in the summer months, though there is something almost holy about the snow-covered crater on a chilly winter day.
Information
There are very small tourist information offices (Niseko44-2468, Kutchan 22-5151; www.niseko.gr.jp/eigo.html; 10am-7pm) in both JR Niseko and Kutchan stations that can provide pamphlets, maps, bus timetables and help with bookings.
To meet the winter crush, the Hirafu Welcome Centre (; 22-0109; www.grand-hirafu.jp/winter/en/index.html; 8.30am-9pm), which is where direct buses to/from New Chitose Airport originate and terminate, also provides English-language information.
The Niseko area is packed throughout the ski season. If you’re coming from Sapporo, it is recommended that you first visit one of the larger regional tourist information centres, and try to arrange accommodation in advance. Most of the accommodation places in Niseko are very internet savvy, which means that it’s also fairly easy to make all of your reservations online well ahead of your trip.
Alternatively, consider visiting a Japanese travel agency to see if you can snag a discounted package holiday. Even if you’re a fiercely independent traveller, you can save some serious cash and sometimes land yourself in an affordable room in a generally unaffordable hotel.
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SKIING
For up-to-the-minute stats, maps and reviews, check out www.snowjapan.com/e/index.php.
Niseko (opposite)
Furano
Rusustu
Abashiri
Sapporo
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Sights & Activities
SKIING & SNOWBOARDING
Niseko United (www.niseko.ne.jp/en; day 8.30am-4.30pm, night 4.30-9pm, Nov-Apr) is the umbrella name for four resorts: Niseko An’nupuri, Niseko Higashiyama, Niseko Grand Hirafu and the Hanazono area.
What makes Niseko United stand out from the competition is that you can access all four ski slopes by purchasing a single All-Mountain Pass (day/night ¥4300/1900). This electronic tag gives you access to 20 different lifts and gondolas, as well as free rides on the intermountain shuttle bus. If you’re planning on skiing for several days, a week or even the season, you can also buy discounted multiday passes.
Rental equipment is of very high quality, and can be picked up virtually everywhere at fairly standard but affordable prices. In fact, a good number of rental shops will deliver and pick up equipment straight to your accommodation. As with the All-Mountain Pass, you can save a bit of money by renting equipment over a longer period of time.
Niseko caters for skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels, and it’s possible to spend several days here without repeating the same course. In total there are around 60 different beginner, intermediate and advanced runs with a 2m to 3m snow base that wind through varied terrain. While it’s difficult to generalise such a massive area, Niseko United is arguably some of the finest skiing in Japan and Asia, and the whole world for that matter.
Downsides include long queues – particularly in Grand Hirafu and Higashiyama – and the usual piped music over loudspeakers, but it’s all fairly standard for skiing in Japan. And, of course, you can always head out to An’nupuri and Hanazono if you want a little more space on the slopes.
Be sure to check the Local Rules Guide (available from the information centre), as accidents do happen and avalanches are