Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [463]
HIKING
While the mild summer months may be low season in Niseko, this is the best time of the year to tackle some of the area’s challenging wilderness hikes.
There is a 16km circuit that starts just west of the summit of Niseko An’nupuri at Goshiki Onsen (), and traverses several summits in the western Niseko range. This hike can be tackled in six to seven hours, and the trailhead is accessible by local bus lines.
From Goshiki Onsen, you can also trek east for two hours up the summit of Niseko An’nupuri (; 1308m). If it’s a clear day, the panorama at the top will be of the Niseko United ski resort as well as neighbouring Yōtei-zan.
One of the toughest day hikes around is a trek to the top of the perfect conical volcano Yōtei-zan (1893m). Known as ‘Ezo Fuji’ in recognition of its more famous southerly cousin, Yōtei-zan is covered in alpine flowers during the summer, though you’re going to face a 10-hour, 10km slog to the top to see them. The trailhead for Yōtei-zan is at Yōtei-zan Tozan-guchi, which is south of Kutchan near JR Hirafu station, and is accessible by local bus lines.
ADVENTURE SPORTS
While skiing and snowboarding are Niseko’s principal drawcards, you can also come here for ice climbing, snowshoeing and dog sledding, as well as canoeing, kayaking and river rafting in the summer. The Niseko Outdoor Centre (; 44-1133; www.noc-hokkaido.jp/e/index.html), near the An’nupuri ski slope, and the Niseko Adventure Centre (; 23-2093; www.nac-web.com/e_index.htm), in the village of Hirafu, can organise activities.
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ONSEN
Tōya-ko Onsen
Noboribetsu Onsen
Asahidake Onsen
Sōunkyō Onsen
Kawayu Onsen
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ONSEN
Trust us – there is nothing quite like the feeling of stepping out of your skis or snowboard, stripping off all of your clothing and jumping into a steamy hot onsen. Most hotels either have a hot spring on the premises, or can point you in the direction of the nearest bathhouse.
If you’re waiting for a bus or train at the JR Niseko station, walk across the street to Kiranoyu (; 44-1100; bath ¥500; 10am-9.30pm Thu-Tue), where you can scrub down in your choice of hinoki (cypress) or rock baths before catching an onward connection.
Sleeping & Eating
Niseko is spread out, with nothing close to the stations. Most places will provide pick-up and drop-off, or you can take buses and shuttles to move about. The closer you get to the slopes themselves, the more options you’ll have. Near the lifts, if you basically walk in a straight line, you’ll run into a pension or two.
Note that our list is by no means comprehensive. While we have tried to select perennial travellers’ favourites, there are dozens and dozens of recommended accommodation options in the Niseko area.
Niseko Kōgen Youth Hostel (; Pooh’s House; /fax 44-1171; http://www13.ocn.ne.jp/~kogenyh/index2.html, in Japanese; 336 Aza Niseko; dm winter/summer ¥3200/3000, breakfast/dinner ¥500/1000; ) This Winnie the Pooh–themed hostel occupies a converted schoolhouse, and is famous among travellers for the owner’s incredible accordion solos. It’s 5km from Niseko Station and about 1km west of the slopes at An’nupuri, though the staff will pick you up and drop you off wherever you need to go.
Niseko Tourist Home (; 44-2517; http://niseko-th.com, in Japanese; dm Nov-Apr/Mar-Oct ¥3500/2500, incl 2 meals ¥5500/4500; ) A clean and inexpensive wooden A-frame about 4km from Niseko station, the always-popular Tourist Home is a great budget base. Attracting a more Japanese crowd than the internationally minded youth hostels, the delightful owners have a lot of pride in their small ski town.
Niseko Annupuri Youth Hostel (; 58-2084; www.annupuri-yh.com, in Japanese; 470-4 Niseko; dm incl 2 meals ¥5380; ) This mountain lodge with classic Continental airs sits conveniently close to the An’nupuri ski grounds. In between powder-perfect