Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [464]
Jam Garden (; 22-6676; www.jamgarden.com, in Japanese; 37-89 Kabayama, Kucchan-chō; r per person incl 2 meals ¥7000, group discounts available) Right near the ski lift at Hirafu, this deluxe farmhouse comes complete with its own Jacuzzi and sauna. Western-style rooms and country cooking are also on offer once you pry yourself away from the nearby slopes of Hirafu.
Pension Forest Green (; 44-2868; www3.ocn.ne.jp/~forest-g, in Japanese; per person incl 2 meals ¥7000; ) This rustic five-room pension set amidst the forest green offers memorable Chinese feasts as part of the lodging package, as well as a nice little pool table where you can bond with other guests. The owners are avid anglers, and can arrange fly-fishing trips in the summer.
Hilton Niseko Village (; 44-1111; fax 44-3224; www.hiltonworldresorts.com/Resorts/Niseko; Higashiyama Onsen; r from ¥19,000; ) There is no shortage of resort hotels in Niseko, though the Hilton enjoys the best location of all – it is quite literally attached to the Niseko Gondola in Higashiyama. As you might expect from the luxury moniker, Western-style rooms at the Hilton are complimented by a whole slew of amenities spread out across a veritable village. Check the website before arriving as special deals are usually available. LAN cable internet available.
Annupuri Village (; 59-2111; fax 59-2112; www.annupurivillage.com; 432-21 Niseko; 4-8 person ski chalet from ¥74,000-98,000; ) If you’re travelling with a large group of friends, consider giving the resort hotels a pass, and renting an immaculately designed ski chalet in Annupuri Village, located at the base of the An’nupuri ski slopes. Natural hardwoods and picture windows are featured prominently from floor to ceiling, while rich stone fireplaces, spa-quality bathroom fixtures, professional kitchens and plasma TVs add a touch of modern class. Summer discounts available.
Many of the lodges and ryokan offer great meals cooked to order, and the slopes have plenty of snacks, pizza, rāmen and other goodies to stave off the munchies while you’re in your gear. After hours, things are tricky because lodging is spread out and buses are surprisingly inconvenient, though there are plenty of watering holes in Hirafu that are usually packed with boisterous and fun-loving Aussies.
Getting There & Away
BUS
During the ski season, a couple of companies run regular highway buses from JR Sapporo station and New Chitose Airport to Niseko, a few of which stop in Rusutsu. The trip takes 3¼ hours, costs ¥2300 (return ¥3850) and provides the most direct access to the various slopes.
Reservations are necessary, and it’s recommended that you book well ahead of your departure date. If you don’t speak Japanese, ask the staff at the tourist information centres or your accommodation to make a reservation for you.
Chūō Bus (011-231-0500; www.chuo-bus.co.jp, in Japanese)
Donan Bus (0123-46-5701; www.donanbus.co.jp, in Japanese)
Hokkaidō Resort Liner (011-219-4411)
Trans Orbit Hokkaidō (011-242-2040)
CAR
Scenic Rte 5 winds from Sapporo to Otaru around the coast, and then cuts inland through the mountains down to Niseko. Having a car will certainly make it easier to move between the various ski slopes. In the summer (low season), public transport drops off, which provides more incentive to pick up a car in Sapporo.
TRAINS
Frequent futsū run on the JR Hakodate line between Sapporo and Otaru (¥620, 40 minutes), and between Otaru and Niseko (¥1410, 1½ hours) via Kutchan (¥1040, 1¼ hours). In the peak of the ski season, there are also a few daily tokkyū between Niseko and Sapporo (¥4560, two hours).
While there is a JR Hirafu station, it is far from the town itself, and is not well serviced by local buses. From JR Niseko and JR Kutchan stations, you will need to switch to local buses to access the villages at the base of the ski slopes.
Getting Around
There are twice-hourly local buses linking JR Kutchan and JR Niseko stations to Hirafu, Higashiyama and