Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [465]
If you’ve purchased an All-Mountain Pass, you can ride the free hourly shuttle bus between Hirafu, Higashiyama and An’nupuri.
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RUSUTSU
0136 / pop 2000
Compared to neighbouring Niseko, Rusutsu is something akin to the runt of the litter. Although some Japanese argue that the skiing here doesn’t get any better, Rusutsu is much, much less developed than Niseko, and vastly pales in size and scope. On the flip side, the slopes aren’t nearly as crowded, and the lack of foreigners results in a decidedly more traditional ambiance.
There is some serious powder waiting for you at Rusutsu Resort (; 46-3111; http://en.rusutsu.co.jp; lift ticket day/night ¥5100/2000; day 9am-5pm, night 4-9pm, Nov-Apr), which boasts well-groomed trails and fantastic tree runs – at times, you’re often the first person passing through the powder! The resort caters equally to skiers and snowboarders, has trails of all difficulty levels, 18 lifts, a 100m half pipe and numerous off-piste options. There are also three restaurants offering bilingual menus, so you can get your energy back by feasting on anything from rāmen and sushi to burgers and curry rice.
The cheapest yet most conveniently located option is the Rusutsu Powder Lodge (; 22-4611; fax 22-4613; dm ¥3150; ), which has firm beds and crisp linens, shared bathrooms and a communal ski-bum atmosphere. It is located just seconds from the slopes next to the Seicomart shop.
A more upmarket option is the Pension Lilla Huset (; 46-3676; fax 46-3435; www.youtei.org/selection/english/english.htm; per person incl 2 meals from ¥7000; ), a red-panelled Western-style inn offering basic rooms and simple meals. Things here aren’t fancy by any stretch of the imagination, though you can’t beat the location right at the bottom of the lifts.
During the ski season, several companies run highway buses from Sapporo and New Chitose Airport to Niseko via Rusutsu (¥1990, two hours). For information on how to make a booking, Click here.
If you’re driving, Rte 230 runs between Sapporo and Tōya-ko via Rusutsu village.
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SHIKOTSU-TŌYA NATIONAL PARK
0142
Shikotsu-tōya (993 sq km) is much more developed than other national parks on the island, and is relatively easy to access via both public and private transport. Shikotsu-tōya is largely mountainous wilderness that is criss-crossed by rugged hiking trails, marked by two picturesque caldera lakes, and home to two of Hokkaidō’s premiere hot-spring towns.
Tōya-ko Onsen
Tōya-ko, a rather touristy hot-spring resort sprawling along the shores of Lake Tōya, garnered a share of the international spotlight in 2008 by hosting the 34th G8 Summit, though things have calmed down considerably since then. As the closest onsen town to Sapporo and New Chitose Airport, however, Lake Tōya remains one of Hokkaidō’s most popular spots for scenic soaking. Then again, it might be a bit hard to relax and enjoy your surroundings, especially when you’re staring down active volcanoes that could blow their tops without a moment’s notice – at least you’ll be fresh and clean when you go!
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
There are more Tōyas here than you can shake a stick at, but don’t let that confuse you. There’s Tōya JR station, Tōya Onsen (on the south of the lake) and Tōya town, on the north side. And of course, don’t forget Tōya-ko itself.
The Tōya-ko Onsen tourist office (75-2446; www.laketoya.com/en; 144 Tōyako Onsen; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) is downhill from the bus station; head towards the lake, then look for it across from the Hotel Grand Tōya.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
In 1943, after a series of violent earthquakes, Shōwa-Shin-zan (; 398m) emerged as an upstart bump in some vegetable fields southeast of Tōya-ko Onsen, and surged upwards for two more years to reach its present height. At the time, Japanese officials were keen to hush it up as they thought it was a bad omen, and might portend an inauspicious end to WWII.