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www.windsor-hotels.co.jp/en/toya; Shimizu Abuta-chō; low-/high-season d from ¥35,700/46,200; ) A member of the prestigious group ‘The Leading Hotels of the World,’ and the location of the 34th G8 Summit, this cruise ship–shaped resort on the northwestern shores of the lake is quite possibly the finest upmarket accommodation in all of Hokkaidō. Rooms vary considerably in size and price, and some of the larger suites are more than a US$1000 a night, but everything here is predictably a class act. The highlight of the Windsor is its impressive restaurant offerings – no less than a dozen different options in total – including a Michelin three-star bistro by French chef Michel Bras. Free shuttle buses run between the JR Tōya station and the hotel and LAN cable internet is available.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Frequent tokkyū run on the JR Muroran line between JR Tōya station and Hakodate (¥5340, 1¾ hours), between Tōya and Sapporo (¥5760, 1¾ hours), and between Tōya and Noboribetsu (¥2650, 35 minutes). Local buses run every 30 minutes between JR Tōya station and Tōya-ko Onsen (¥320, 25 minutes).

Highway buses are a less expensive option, running frequently between Tōya and Sapporo (¥2700, 2¾ hours), and between Tōya and Muroran (¥1170, 1¾ hours).

From April to November, regular buses also run between Tōya and Noboribetsu Onsen ¥1530, 1¼ hours) via the scenic Orofure pass; some continue onwards to New Chitose Airport (¥2140, 2½ hours).

If you’re driving, a well-maintained network of local roads branches off of the Dō-ō Expressway () running between Sapporo and Hakodate.

Noboribetsu Onsen

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Nobiribetsu is the most popular onsen resort on the island, boasting over 30 bathhouses clustered tightly together along a narrow, winding street. Unfortunately, it’s not nearly as atmospheric as you might expect – unsightly convenience stores, concrete hotels and garish souvenir shops lend a tacky Disneyland-esque atmosphere to an otherwise rustic hot-springs town. However, if you can get over the mass commercialisation of Nobiribetsu, you’re in for an onsen experience par excellence. The rejuvenating water here originates from a volcanic sulphurous ‘hell’ not far above, and some of the higher-end spas are among Hokkaidō’s best.

INFORMATION

The tourist association office (84-3311; 60 Noboribetsu onsen-machi; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) has English maps, hotel locations and good English info on the bathing hours.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

The granddaddy of onsen resorts is Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan (; 84-3322; www.takimotokan.co.jp/english; onsen bath ¥2000; 9am-5pm). Although it’s a bit over the top for some, this massive and unmistakable compound has more than 15 different kinds of baths, ranging from take-your-skin-off scalding to cryogenic freeze-inducing cold. Several outdoor rotemburo (open-air baths) offer beautiful views of the valley, and there’s even a swimming pool (where you will require a swimsuit).

For half the price, you’ll get much of the same luxury (minus the view) at the Noboribetsu Grand Hotel (; 717-8899; www.nobogura.co.jp/english; onsen bath ¥1000; 12.30-5pm & 6.30-8pm), a few steps away from the bus station. The star attraction is the beautiful hinoki bath, and a domed ceiling to give the spacious impression of a Roman-era bath. Men’s and women’s areas alternate during the day to give each gender the chance to see both bathing areas.

Jigokudani (; Hell Valley) is a short walk uphill, offering viewers a peek at what may await us in the afterlife: sulphurous gases, hissing vents and vividly coloured rocks. Pools of scalding water can be seen from Ōyu-numa (; Boiling Water Swamp). For those of us who are far from heaven-bound, it’s good to know that hell (if the Japanese have anything to say about it!) will surely include a lot of onsen.

The simple public bath (;84-2050; 60 Noboribetsu onsen-machi; onsen bath ¥390; 7am-10pm), on the 1st floor of an office building next to the tourist association office has three spartan baths if you want a quick soap and scrub without having to peel a ¥1000 bill or two out of