Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [468]
SLEEPING
Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan (84-3322; www.takimotokan.co.jp/english; 55 Noboritsu Onsen; r incl 2 meals from ¥11,175; ) The town’s most famous hot spring also doubles as a resort hotel, offering Western- and Japanese-style rooms in several wings of varying luxury. Meals, which vary seasonally, are offered either buffet-style in the main dining room, or brought straight to your room, and guests receive complimentary 24-hour access to the hot springs complex. Check the internet before arriving as you can sometimes score some big discounts, especially during weekdays and off-season.
Noboribetsu Grand Hotel (717-8899; fax 84-2543; www.nobogura.co.jp, in Japanese; 154 Noboritsu Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥12,600 ) A slightly more refined alternative to the Takimoto-kan, the Grand Hotel was once a favourite of the Imperial family, though today it principally caters to package travellers on the tour-bus circuit. Still, there are some beautiful Western- and Japanese-style rooms here, and having 24-hour access to the beautiful baths is a treat in itself. If you can read Japanese, again, check the internet before arriving as there are sometimes some big discounts on offer.
Kashōtei Hanaya (; 84-2521; fax 84-2240; www.kashoutei-hanaya.co.jp/english/index.htm; 134 Noboritsu Onsen; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥12,750; ) A great midrange ryokan with Japanese-style rooms (some overlook the river), Kashōtei Hanaya is a more intimate option to the larger and occasionally overwhelming hot-springs hotels. It’s located near the southern end of the resort drag, and features its own charming little onsen that is only open to guests.
Ryotei Hanayura (; 84-2322; fax 84-2035; http://hanayura.com/en/index.html; 100 Noboritsu Onsen; r incl 2 meals from ¥23,000; ) While it’s double the price of other accommodation in town, Hanayura is the embodiment of what you imagine a hot-springs resort to be. Classically Japanese in style and service, the emphasis here is on personalised attention and subdued luxury, which isn’t too hard given that there are only 37 rooms, some of which feature private outdoor baths. The hotel is located near the northern end of the resort drag, though with advanced reservations, they’ll pick you up in Sapporo.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Frequent tokkyū run on the JR Muroran line between JR Noboribetsu station and Hakodate (¥6700, 2½ hours), between Noboribetsu and Sapporo (¥4360, 1¼ hours), and between Noboribetsu and JR Tōya station (¥2650, 35 minutes). Local buses run every 30 minutes between JR Noboribetsu station and Noboribetsu Onsen (¥330, 15 minutes).
Highway buses are a less expensive option, running frequently between Noboribetsu and Sapporo (¥1900, two hours), and between Noboribetsu and Muroran (¥710, 1¼ hours).
From April to November, regular buses also run between Noboribetsu and Tōya (¥1530, 1¼ hours) via the scenic Orofure pass; some continue onwards to New Chitose Airport (¥1330, 1¼ hours).
If you’re driving, Noboribetsu is easily accessed by the Dō-ō Expressway () running between Sapporo and Hakodate.
Shikotsu-ko
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Completely surrounded by soaring volcanoes, Shikotsu-ko is the second largest caldera lake in Japan, though it perennially plays second fiddle to Tōya-ko. As a result, Shikotsu-ko is much less developed than its spotlight-grabbing sibling, and attracts a more independent crowd of outdoor enthusiasts. While onsen activity is a bit more subdued here, Shikotsu-ko does provide some of the best hiking opportunities in the whole of the national park, and there is a refreshing lack of rampant commercialism.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The area is served by Shikotsu Kohan (), a tiny town consisting mainly of a bus station, a visitors centre (;25-2404; www15.ocn.ne.jp/~sikotuvc, in Japanese; 9.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, 9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Mon Nov-Mar), a boat pier, a few souvenir shops and restaurants.
Morappu (), 7km south, has a few more spots for dining, sleeping, shopping etc, though it’s a bit inconvenient to access as there are no local buses around the lake –