Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [469]
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Hiking is one of the area’s most popular activities, but check first with staff at the visitors centre since trails are frequently closed due to bad weather and erosion. Japanese walkers all wear bear bells in this area, which is an obvious sign that you should stay on the main tracks to avoid an unexpected encounter.
Monbetsu-dake (; 866m) is one of the easiest hikes in the area. The trail starts at the northern end of Shikotsu Kohan, and it should take you around 1½ hours to reach the summit.
A much more challenging ascent is Eniwa-dake (; 1320m), which lies on the northwestern side of the lake. A 3½-hour hike will bring you to the crater, though enquire locally as trail conditions near the top can be dangerous.
On the southern side of the lake is Tarumae-zan (; 1041m), an active volcano that is the area’s most popular trek. Due to poisonous gases, the crater itself is usually closed, but you can reach the rim from the seventh station (only accessible by private car) in about 40 minutes.
A spectacular, mossy gorge, Koke-no-dōmon (Map; 9am-5pm Jun-Oct) has unfortunately suffered from erosion, which means that visitors are now only allowed to view it from the roped-off area.
You can also take a one-hour walk on the nature trail between the pier and Morappu, which goes through a wild bird forest with two birdwatching blinds. There are birding ID boards along the trail to help you get acquainted with the local avians.
When you’re ready to take a break from all the hiking, Itō Onsen (25-2620; admission ¥700; 10am-4pm) on the northern shores of the lake is a great place to quite literally soak up the atmosphere. This modest onsen is famous for its unobstructed views of the lake, so feel free to let it all hang out and embrace Mother Nature.
Freshwater scuba diving in the lake can be arranged through Blue Note (; 0120-43-3340; 107 Shikotsuko Onsen; www2.ocn.ne.jp/~bluenote; 1-/2-tank dive ¥12,390/17,640, dry suit rental ¥9240). Waterflowers, 100m cliffs and numerous freshwater fish can be seen, and you’ll be nice and warm if you spring for the dry suit. Some English spoken.
Finally, touristy but all-together enjoyable sightseeing cruises (25-2031; per person ¥1100; Apr-Nov) leave regularly from Shikotsu Kohan’s pier.
SLEEPING
Morappu Camping Ground (;25-2439; camp sites from ¥500; late Apr–late Oct) If you’re car-camping, this is a clean and convenient spot in Morappu that is situated right beside the lake.
Shikotsu-ko Youth Hostel (; 25-2311; fax 25-2312; dm from ¥2900; ) This European-styled alpine lodge offers rustic dormitories and private rooms for travelling families. The extras sweeten the deal: home-cooked meals (breakfast/dinner costs ¥600/1000), a private onsen, bike rental and cross-country skiing tours in the winter. To reach the hostel head away from the visitors centre; after about a three-minute walk, it’s on the other side of a car park.
Lapland (; 25-2239; www.north-wind.ne.jp/~lapland, in Japanese; dm/r incl 2 meals ¥4900/5900; ) While you’re certainly a long way from Scandinavia, this positively adorable log cabin feels right at home at these northerly latitudes. Guests can bed down in either private rooms or dormitories, and take advantage of the simple rotemburo. Located in Morappu, the friendly owners provide personalised service, and can bring you back and forth to the bus station and to the various trailheads.
Log Bear (;25-2738; http://web.mac.com/logbear; r per person incl 1/2 meals ¥5000/7000; ) Another picture-perfect log cabin, sitting in the centre of Shikotsu Kohan, the owner speaks fluent English, makes an excellent cup of coffee and can cook up some seriously gourmet meals. Appropriately enough, Log Bear is both a B&B and a coffeehouse that caters equally well to Japanese and foreign travellers. Walk straight (east) from the visitors centre to the small alley directly across the street. Log Bear is on the left, just after Tonton (a restaurant). If you reach Tōya-ko Kankō Hotel,