Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [483]
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DAISETSUZAN NATIONAL PARK
Known as Nutakukamushupe in Ainu, Daisetsuzan or Big Snow Mountain is Japan’s largest national park, covering more than 2300 sq km. A vast wilderness area of soaring mountains, active volcanoes, remote onsen, clear lakes and dense forests, Daisetsuzan is the kind of place that stressed-out workers in Tokyo and Osaka dream about on their daily commute.
Virtually untouched by human hands, tourism in the park is minimal, with most visitors basing themselves in the hot-spring villages on the periphery. From the comfort of your onsen hotel, you can make small forays into the park’s interior, summiting peaks and trekking through valleys on challenging day hikes.
However, if you’re properly equipped with the right gear, and you’ve done a bit of advanced planning, you can tackle Japan’s most hardcore multiday trek, the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse (see the boxed text). No matter how far you venture into the park, though, any notions you have of Japan being small and densely packed will be shattered.
Asahidake Onsen
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This forested hot-springs resort consists of around a dozen or so small inns lying at the base of Asahi-dake. Serious hikers head here for the start of the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse, though are plenty of other hiking options, many of which wind through unique terrain offering a mix of volcanic activity, fields and foliage. Whether you’re here for full-on trek or just a few day hikes, be good to your body by spending ample time luxuriating in the area’s healing onsen.
INFORMATION
Hikers should pay a visit to the Asahidake Visitors Centre (97-2153; www.town.higashikawa.hokkaido.jp/vc, in Japanese; 9am-5pm daily Jun-Oct, 9am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-May), which has excellent maps that the staff will mark with daily track conditions. An onsen map is also available here, which lists the locations, prices and hours of the various baths.
From June to August the flowers are at their peak; foliage turns the hills crimson and then gold shortly after, peaking in mid- to late September. Compared to other onsen towns in Japan, Asahidake Onsen is not overdeveloped, though it can become quite crowded during these times.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Hiking
At the base of Asahidake, the Asahidake ropeway (68-9111; one way/return Jul–mid-Oct ¥1500/2800, mid-Oct–Jun ¥1000/1800; 6am-4.30pm Jul–mid-Oct, 9am-4pm mid-Oct–Jun) runs to within easy hiking distance of the peak.
Once you’ve climbed Asahidake, you can either return to the ropeway, embark on the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse or descend to Sōunkyō Onsen. There is also a 1.7km loop track that leads for about 50 minutes around the area before returning to the ropeway’s upper terminal.
There are rotemburo off the northern route at Nakadake Onsen; branch left at Nakadake-bunki just before ascending Nakadake. Beware: the water in Yudoku Onsen is poisonous – don’t touch it.
From Asahidake Onsen there’s also a 5.5km track leading through the forest in about two hours to Tenninkyō Onsen, a small hot-springs resort with a scenic gorge and the beautiful Hagoromo-no-taki (Angel’s Robe Waterfall).
Onsen
Most onsen, even at the higher-end hotels, are open for day use to the general public, but times and prices vary considerably. Prices range from ¥500 up to ¥1500. Bringing your own wash cloth and towel can shave ¥200 to ¥500 off the price.
SLEEPING & EATING
Daisetsuzan Shirakaba-sō (; 97-2246; fax 97-2247; http://park19.wakwak.com/~shirakaba/english.html; dm ¥5720, dm/r per person incl 2 meals ¥6890/7940; ) Something of a cross between a youth hostel and a ryokan, this mountain lodge near the ropeway’s lower terminal offers comfortable Japanese- and Western-style rooms and hot-spring baths. There is a large kitchen available if you’re self-catering, though it’s worth going