Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [484]
Lodge Nutapukaushipe (; 97-2150; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥7500, rāmen from ¥750; ) Next door to Shirakaba-sō, this log-cabin style accommodation is an intimate choice, offering just a handful of private rooms. The property is also highlighted by a wonderful onsen built from rich woods, as well as a rāmen shop that tops traditional noodle blends with local vegetables – the menu changes seasonally, so ask for the osusume (recommendation).
Hotel Beamonte (;97-2321; www.bearmonte.jp, in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥10,650; ) Across from the visitors centre, Asahidake’s most sophisticated accommodation is this European-style resort hotel, which combines elegant rooms (some with polished wooden floors) with a stunner of an onsen, offering a variety of indoor and outdoor rock tubs. Prices vary substantially depending on the season, and it can be quite full at times; calling ahead is a good plan. Visiting the bath only is possible for ¥1500.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From 15 June to October, there are five buses in both directions between bus stop 4 at the in front of the JR station in Asahikawa and Asahidake Onsen (¥1320, 1½ hours). The first bus, which leaves Asahikawa and Asahidake at 9.10am and 9.15am, respectively, is direct, while all others require a quick transfer in Higashikawa. All other times of the year, there are only one or two daily buses in both directions.
If you’re driving, follow Rtes 237, 213 and 160 from Asahikawa to Asahidake Onsen. Note that these roads are very dangerous in the snowy winter months, so drive with extreme caution.
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DAISETSUZAN GRAND TRAVERSE
Hokkaidō’s ultimate outdoor experience, the Daisetsuzan Grand Traverse is roughly a five-day, 55-km hike connecting two active volcanoes, Asahi-dake (; 2290m) and Tokachi-dake (; 2077m), which lie at the northern and southern areas of the park, respectively. While the route follows a clearly marked trek, you will need to be entirely self-sufficient as the various shelters lining the way are unstaffed. You should also be in relatively good physical condition, as this is considered to be a very, very challenging hike.
The hiking season runs from early July to late October, and there are guaranteed sources of fresh water (sometimes snow!) throughout this time frame. A tent and camping gear are preferable to the extremely bare-bones huts, and you’ll need to carry in your own food and cooking supplies. This is also bear country, so be smart and tie a bell to your rucksack. You should also pick up a topographic map of the area – we recommend anything by the Japanese company Yama-to-kogen-chizu () – and be sure to talk to the staff at the Asahidake Visitors Centre (Click here).
The grand traverse starts from atop the ropeway in the village of Asahidake Onsen, and leads up and over Asahi-dake, the tallest mountain in Hokkaidō, on the first day. You can spend the night at the base of Kuro-dake (; 1984m), and either continue on the second day to Chūbetsu-dake Hinan-goya (), or cut the hike short by taking a combination of a ropeway and chairlift down to the village of Sōunkyō Onsen (see below).
On the third day, you continue south, spending the night at the base of Tomuraushi-yama (; 2141m), one of Japan’s famous 100 mountains that is seemingly an enormous pile of boulders. The fourth day is a 17km slog to Biei Fuji Hinan Goya () that’s notoriously difficult, and can be broken down into two shorter days if you bring enough food.
Finally, on the last day, you tackle Tokachi-dake before descending into the village of Tokachi-dake Onsen (see opposite), where you can reward yourself with a much-needed soak in the hot springs. Happy trails!
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Sōunkyō Onsen
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Daisetsuzan’s second major gateway is this onsen town on the park’s northeastern edge, which provides secondary access to the Grand Traverse (see the boxed text, above). Once again, even if you’re not hiking through the length of the park, Sōunkyō Onsen is still a nice