Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [485]
INFORMATION
The tourist information office (5-3350; www.sounkyo.net/english/index.html; 8.30am-5pm), on the first floor of the public bath Kurodake-no-yu, has several maps and English-language pamphlets. Its booking service may be useful if you arrive in high season. Next to the ropeway terminus, the park visitor centre (9-4400; http://sounkyovc.town.kamikawa.hokkaido.jp, in Japanese; 8am-5.30pm daily Jun-Oct, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-May) can provide information on park conditions.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Sōunkyō
This gorge stretches for about 8km beyond Sōunkyō Onsen, and is renowned for its waterfalls – Ryūsei-no-taki (; Shooting Stars Falls) and Ginga-no-taki (Milky Way Falls) are the main ones – and for two sections of perpendicular rock columns that give an enclosed feeling; hence their names, Ōbako (Big Box) and Kobako (; Little Box). If you don’t have a rental car, a number of shops along the main street rent mountain-bikes (¥2000 per day).
Hiking
The combination of the Sōunkyō Ropeway and chairlift (5-3031) provides fast access to Kuro-dake (; 1984m) for hikers and sightseers. One-way/return tickets on the ropeway cost ¥900/1750 and on the chairlift ¥400/600. Hours of operation vary seasonally (8am to 7pm in July and August, closed intermittently in winter).
From July to the end of September, one bus a day goes to Ginsen-dai, where the trailhead Aka-dake (; 2078m) is located. The bus leaves Sōunkyō Onsen at 6am and returns from Ginsen-dai at 2.15pm (¥800, one hour), leaving you plenty of time for your ascent and descent.
A short, steep and very pretty track runs up to Soūbakudai, a scenic overlook of the two waterfalls, Ryūsei-no-taki and Ginga-no-taki. Look for the steps leading up the hill directly behind where the bus stops. It takes about 20 minutes to reach the top.
After a hard day of cycling or hiking, Kurodake-no-yu (;5-3333; admission ¥600; 10am-9pm Thu-Tue) offers handsome hot-spring baths (including rotemburo). It’s on the town’s main pedestrian street. You can also soothe your aching feet in the free ashi-no-yu (foot bath), next to the Ginsenkaku Hotel.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Hyōbaku Matsuri (; Ice-Waterfall Festival) From the end of January to the end of March, this festival features ice sculptures, tunnels and domes, some lit up.
Kyōkoku Hi Matsuri (; Kyōkoku Fire Festival) This celebration on the last Saturday in July is meant to purify the hot springs and appease the mountain and fire deities. Revellers perform traditional Ainu owl dances and drumming, climaxing with archers shooting flaming arrows into the gorge.
SLEEPING
Sōunkyō Youth Hostel (;5-3418; www.youthhostel.or.jp/sounkyo; dm per person with/without 2 meals ¥ 4830/3150; Jun-Oct; ) Dwarfed by the larger block-style resorts, this humble wooden hostel is about a 10-minute walk uphill from the bus station. Offering bunk-bed accommodation, as well as basic but filling meals, this is a great place to meet other hikers before braving the elements and heading into the park.
Ginsenkaku (;5-3003; www.ginsenkaku.com in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals high/low season from ¥15,900/10,500; ) A Japanese style-inn with the appearance of an alpine chalet, Ginsenkaku is a very professional operation located in the centre of the village. Traditionally minded tatami rooms are the scene of lavish nightly feasts, though not before you give yourself a good scrub down in the steamy common baths, including a rotemburo with a view.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are up to seven buses a day in both directions between Sōunkyō Onsen and Asahikawa (¥1950, 1¾ hours) via Kamikawa. JR Rail Pass holders can travel for free between Asahikawa and Kamikawa, and then catch the bus between Kamikawa and Sōunkyō Onsen (¥800, 35 minutes). These buses also run between Sōunkyō Onsen and Akan Kohan (¥3260, 3½ hours) in Akan National Park.
There are also a couple of buses a day to Kushiro (¥4790, 5¼ hours)