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park (905 sq km) contains volcanic peaks, large caldera lakes, thick forests and rejuvenating onsen, though the six million or so visitors who come here each year are more interested in snapping photos of algae. Of course, we’re not talking about any old clump of green slime, but rather marimo (Cladophora aegagropila), a surprisingly cute and increasingly rare spherical form of algae that has been declared a national treasure. Even if the appeal of marimo is lost on you, Akan is big enough that even at peak times, it easy to get away from it all, particularly if you’re looking to hike or meander around isolated forest and mountain tracks.

Orientation & Information

The main access points are Bihoro and Abashiri to the north, and Kushiro to the south. Inside the park itself, you can base yourself in the towns of Kawayu Onsen and Akan Kohan, while Teshikaga (aka Mashū Onsen) serves as a useful transport hub. While it is possible to access the area by public transport, having your own car will make it much easier to get around and visit the various sights. If you’re hiking, be advised that bear activity is high, though you’re more likely to see common and cunning foxes, which often steal unguarded food or even sleeping bags.

Kawayu Onsen

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Kawayu is a quiet onsen town that is home to more than two dozen hot springs, though it’s the surrounding area where Akan National Park really comes to life. From errant monster sightings in crater lakes to hard-boiled eggs in sulphurous pools, there is plenty here to keep you busy between bath times.

ORIENTATION & INFORMATION

The tourist information office (483-2255; www.kawayuonsen.com, in Japanese; 9am-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-May), about 10 minutes on foot from the bus station in the village of Kawayu Onsen, is a good source of information, and provides free internet access and bike rental. Cycling is a good way to get around, but check distances carefully before a lengthy ride.

Another useful little spot in the village is the Kawayu Eco-Museum Centre (; 483-4100; www6.marimo.or.jp/k_emc, in Japanese; 8am-5pm May-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Apr), which is something akin to a park visitors centre. Here, you can pick up handy hiking maps (in Japanese), and get some tips on exploring the area on foot.

Kawayu Onsen bus station is 10 minutes by bus from JR Kawayu Onsen station, one of the main access points for the national park. JR Mashū station and the adjacent town of Teshikaga, a little further south, is an alternative access point for some of the attractions listed following.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Onsen

All of the onsen in Kawayu Onsen charge between ¥200 and ¥1000 for admission, though you can save a bit of money if bring along your own waist towel and soap.

Any of the hot springs is good for a bit of clean fun, though make a point of visiting Wakoto Onsen. Special not for what it has, but for what it doesn’t, Wakoto is merely a scalding hot pool in the middle of nowhere on the southern shore of a beautiful lake. Best reached by car or bicycle, Wakoto Onsen has none of the razzle-dazzle of most spa resorts. There’s no electricity, no soap, no buckets, not even any doors on the bathhouse: you just strip, dip and enjoy. Not for everyone, but true onsen buffs will appreciate it. It has a view of the western side of Lake Kussahro and, in season, snow geese fly overhead as the sun slips behind the mountains. Not for the modest either, as it’s a konyoku (mixed sex) bath and there’s algae on the rocks, which makes getting in and out a slippery affair. If it’s too hot when you stick a toe in, try moving further away (towards the lake, not the bathhouse) and you’ll find it’s a slightly cooler shade of scalding.

Iō-zan

This hellish mountain (512m) comes complete with steaming vents, sunshine-yellow sulphur and onsen-steamed eggs. You’ll hear the sellers calling Tamago! Tamago! Tamago! Tamago! (Eggs!) even before you reach the car park. Although they don’t taste much different from a regular kitchen-boiled egg, they’re a sickly brownish-green. The 4km walk between JR Kawayu station and