Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [490]
Lakes
Considered by many to be Japan’s most beautiful lake, Mashū-ko () once held the world record for water clarity, with visibility of 35m. The island in the middle, which is hauntingly beautiful, was known by the Ainu as the Isle of the Gods.
Kussharo-ko (), the other major lake, is famous for its swimming, boating and volcanically warmed sands. Naka-jima is the aptly named ‘middle island’ that’s in the centre of the lake, which has its own version of the Loch Ness monster, named Kusshi. No one has yet claimed it to be a hoax, so if you’re a Nessie fan, at least here in Hokkaidō you still have hope.
Museums
Sumō fans will enjoy Koki Taiho Sumō Memorial Hall (;483-2924; admission ¥400; 9am-9pm Jun-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-May), a small museum in Kawayu Onsen dedicated to a hometown hero.
The Museum of Ainu Folklore (; 484-2128; admission ¥310; 9am-5pm mid-Apr–Oct) in the village of Kussharo Kotan displays tools and crafts.
SLEEPING & EATING
Camping is a good option as there are manicured camping grounds located throughout the park. One of the nicest is Wakoto-hantō Kohan Camping Ground (484-2350; camp sites ¥450, cabins ¥4500; mid-May–Oct), which also has spartan cabins, as well as canoes and kayaks for hire. It is located along Rte 234 south of the Bihoro Pass, and is accessible either by private vehicle or by bus from Mashū, Bihoro and Kawayu Onsen.
Mashū-ko Youth Hostel (482-3098; www.masyuko.co.jp/english/yhe.htm; dm ¥3000-3500, s ¥4500-7400, d ¥5000-9000, breakfast/dinner ¥760/1260; ) A modern and comfortable base for exploring Akan National Park, this youth hostel is a 10-minute drive from downtown Teshikaga, and offers fairly standard Western-style accommodation with shared facilities. However, the personality of the property is raised significantly at the next-door Great Bear, a European-style mess hall where you can dine with fellow hostellers at the long table. If you don’t have a car, the English-speaking staff will pick you up at JR Mashū station with an advanced reservation.
Kussharo-Genya Youth Guesthouse (484-2609; www.gogogenya.com/intro/e-intro.htm; dm/r per person from ¥4700/5200, breakfast/dinner ¥600/1300; ) Just off of Rte 243 on the southern shores of Kussharo-ko, this wonderfully designed youth hostel is an architectural treat, both inside and out. Reminiscent of a large wooden church lording over fields of vegetables, Kussharo-Genya charms guests with vaulted ceilings, lofty skylights and polished wooden floors; keeps them busy with a constantly changing list of activities; and sends them away stuffed to the brim with veritable gourmet meals centred on Hokkaidō delicacies. Once again, if you don’t have a car, the English-speaking staff will pick you up at JR Mashū station with an advanced reservation.
Onsen Minshuku Nibushi-no-Sato (483-2294; www1.ocn.ne.jp/~kussie; r per person incl 2 meals ¥8550; ) This family-run minshuku sits on the northwestern shores of Kussharo-ko off of Rte 52, and is very accommodating to foreign travellers. The property has a casual log-cabin feel complete with a small but sublime private onsen, and the owners can point out some great local walks, bike trails and birdwatching spots. Nibushi-no-Sato is a short drive from Kawayu Onsen bus station, or you can call ahead for a pick-up.
Misono Hotel (; 483-2511; www.misonohotel.com, in Japanese; r high/low season incl 2 meals from ¥10,650/8550; ) This luxurious ryokan sits in the middle of Kawayu village, and is marked by a free ashiyu (foot bath) that is a nice little appetiser for the main course to follow. Western- and Japanese-style rooms are large and loungy, though most of your quality time will be spent in the indoor and outdoor sulphur springs, which are reported to help ease muscle pain, stiffness and fatigue.
Marukibune (; 484-2644; dishes from ¥650; 11am-7.30pm) Next door to the Museum of Ainu Folklore in Kussharo Kotan, this popular restaurant has a variety of local specialities including howaito-rāmen (noodles in milk broth; ¥1000) and the sashimi of parimono (a local