Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [500]
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TOKUSHIMA
088 / pop 270,000
Flanked by mountains and centred on a palm-lined promenade, the modern city of Tokushima is best known for the Awa-odori festival in August. The city is also a convenient base for exploring the nearby Naruto whirlpools. To pilgrims, Tokushima serves as the gateway to the island, and the jumping-off point for the first group of temples.
Orientation
Tokushima’s main landmark is Mt Bizan (), which dominates the city from the west. The remains of the old castle now form a pleasant park directly behind the railway station. The main road runs from the station to the Mt Bizan cable car, crossing the Shinmachi-gawa (Shinmachi River) on the way. The main entertainment district is across the river in Akita-machi.
Information
There are coin lockers at the station, and the ATMs at the post office accept international cards.
JTB (Japan Travel Bureau; 623-3181; 1-29 Ryōgoku Honmachi; 10am-6pm closed Wed) Travel agency located near Tōyoko Inn.
Tokushima Prefecture International Exchange Association (TOPIA; 656-3303; www.topia.ne.jp; 10am-6pm) This extremely helpful place is on the 6th floor of the station building, and has English-speaking staff. Internet access is available (¥50 for 10 minutes), and you can leave your bags here during the day.
Tourist information office (622-8556; 9am-8pm) In a booth outside the station. Has English brochures and maps.
Sights & Activities
BIZAN
At the southwestern end of Shinmachibashi-dōri is Awa Odori Kaikan (611-1611; 2-20 Shinmachibashi; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed), which features extensive exhibits relating to the Awa-odori festival and dance. You can see the dance performed throughout the year at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm daily (with an additional performance at 11am on weekends), with a nightly performance at 8pm (afternoon/evening performances ¥500/700). From the 5th floor, a cable car (652-3617; one way/return Nov-Mar ¥600/1000, return Apr-Oct ¥600; 9am-5.30pm Nov-Mar, to 9pm Apr-Oct & during cherry-blossom season, to 10pm during Awa-odori festival) whizzes you to the 280m-high summit for fine views over the city. A combined ticket covering the museum, cable car and dance show is ¥1500.
At the top of the hill is a small park centred on a peace pagoda, and the Wenceslao de Moraes Museum (623-5342; Mosukegahara Bizan-chō; admission ¥200, free with cable-car ticket; 9.30am-5pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of the month). Moraes was a Portuguese naval commander who served as consul in Kobe and lived in Tokushima from 1813 until his death in 1929. He wrote a number of books on Tokushima and its traditions. Some rocky trails lead back down to the bottom of the hill, taking about 20 minutes.
AWA PUPPET THEATRE
For hundreds of years, puppet theatre thrived in the farming communities around Tokushima. Most of the theatres have long since gone, but the traditional dramas can still be seen at Awa Jūrobei Yashiki (; 665-2202; 184 Honura; museum admission ¥400; 9.30am-5pm). This small museum, which contains displays of puppets, and English explanations on the history of the drama. It’s in the former residence of Bandō Jūrobei, a samurai who allowed himself to be executed for a crime he didn’t commit, in order to preserve the good name of his master. The tale provided inspiration for the drama Keisei Awa no Naruto, first performed in 1768. Sections from the play are performed at 11am daily, and at 11am and 2pm on weekends. More puppets can be seen at nearby Awa Deko Ningyō Kaikan (; Awa Puppet Hall; 665-5600; 1-84 Honura; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm, closed 1st & 3rd Wed of the month).
To get to the museum, take a bus for Tomiyoshi Danchi () from Tokushima station