Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [501]
CHŪŌ-KŌEN
Northeast of the train station, on the slopes of Shiroyama, is Chūō-kōen, where you’ll find the ruins of Tokushima-jō (Tokushima Castle). Built in 1585 for Hachisuka Iemasa after he was granted the fiefdom of Awa by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, most of the castle was destroyed in 1875 following the Meiji Restoration. A few ramparts and the moat are pretty much all that’s left, along with an attractive garden that once formed part of the daimyō’s (domain lords’) pleasure quarters. The pleasant park is a popular spot for walkers and joggers. If you’re having problems imagining the former grandeur of the site, Tokushima Castle Museum (656-2525; 1-8 Jōnai; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm, closed Mon) contains an impressive reconstruction of the castle town at its peak, as well as the daimyō’s boat, some displays of armour, and letters to the local lord from Hideyoshi and the first Tokugawa shogun, Ieyasu. The displays are all in Japanese. Just south of the ruins is attractive Senshūkaku-teien (; admission ¥50, included in museum ticket), an intimate garden that was laid out in the late 16th century.
Tours
On weekends from mid-March to mid-October (and daily from 20 July to 31 August), boats cruise the river around the ‘gourd-shaped’ Hyōtan-jima (Hyōtan Island) that makes up central Tokushima – a pleasant way to get your bearings. The free 25-minute tours leave from Ryōgoku-bashi (; Ryōgoku Bridge) on the Shinmachi-gawa. Boats depart every 20 minutes from 1pm to 3.40pm on Saturday and Sunday from mid-March to mid-October, and daily from 20 July to 31 August. In July and August there are additional departures every 40 minutes from 5pm to 7.40pm.
Festivals & Events
Every August Tokushima is the location for one of the biggest parties in Japan, when the Awa-odori Matsuri (Awa-odori Festival; ) takes place to mark the O-bon holidays. The Awa-odori is the largest and most famous bon dance in Japan. Every night from 12 to 15 August, men, women and children don yukata (light cotton kimono) and straw hats and take to the streets to dance to the samba-like rhythm of the theme song ‘Awa Yoshikono’, accompanied by the sounds of shamisen (three-stringed guitars), taiko (drums) and fue (flutes). You’ll need to plan ahead if you want to be a part of it: more than a million people descend on Tokushima for the festival every year, and accommodation is at a premium.
Sleeping
Sakura-sō (652-9575; fax 652-2220; 1-25 Terashima-honchō-higashi; per person without bathroom ¥3300; ) The best budget option in town is close to the railway tracks, a few blocks east of the station. This friendly minshuku (guest house) has good Japanese-style rooms. It’s opposite a car park, a short walk from the station. Look for the sign on the right, in Japanese: .
Dai-ichi Hotel (655-5005; fax 655-5003; www.tokushima-daiichihotel.co.jp, in Japanese; s/tw ¥5200/7300; ) A good business-hotel option a short walk left after the bus terminal that’s in front of the station. LAN internet in all rooms, and consoles in the lobby.
Tōyoko Inn (657-1045; fax 657-1046; www.toyoko-inn.com; 1-5 Ryōgoku Honchō; s/tw with small breakfast ¥6300/8400; ) This newly opened hotel is a good option, with small but clean and comfortable rooms. There is LAN internet access in rooms, and there are computer consoles in the lobby.
Agnes Hotel Tokushima (626-2222; fax 626-3788; www.agneshotel.jp, in Japanese; 1-28 Terashima-honchō-nishi; s/d from ¥6300/12,600; ) This chic hotel a few blocks from the station has large rooms with modern, minimalist designs, and an elegant pastry cafe that’s perfect for a lazy breakfast. There’s internet access in the lobby, and LAN access in all rooms.
Tokushima Tōkyū Inn (626-0109; fax 626-0686; www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com; 1-24 Motomachi; s/d from ¥7600/13,000; ) This reliable business hotel, part of the popular Tōkyū Inn chain, is next to the Sogō department store. Western-style rooms are small but functional. There is LAN internet access in all rooms, and there are coin-operated terminals in the