Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [504]
The Iya region is a nature-lover’s paradise, with some superb hiking around Mt Tsurugi and white-water rafting in the stunning Ōboke and Koboke Gorges. Worn-out travellers can reward themselves at the end of the day by soaking in top-notch onsen (hot springs) and sampling the local Iya soba (buckwheat noodles).
Access to the area is via Ōboke station, reached by train from Takamatsu, Kōchi or Tokushima with a change at Awa Ikeda. Getting around the valley itself involves some planning, because Iya’s sights are widespread, and public transport is sporadic at the best of times. Infrequent buses travel between Awa Ikeda, Ōboke and Iya, but the best way to explore the region is with your own wheels – rental cars are available in Shikoku’s larger cities.
Ōboke & Koboke
Ōboke and Koboke are two scenic gorges on the Yoshino-gawa. South of Ikeda on Old Rte 32 between Koboke and Ōboke, white-water rafting and kayaking trips run from April to late November. Aussie-run Happy Raft (0887-75-0500; www.happyraft.com), close to JR Tosa Iwahara station across the border in Kōchi-ken, operates daily trips with English-speaking guides (half-day ¥5500 to ¥7500, full day ¥10,000 to ¥15,500).
A great place to warm up after a chilling plunge is Iya Onsen (0883-75-2311; Matsuo Matsumoto 367-2; admission ¥1500; 7.30am-5pm), on Old Rte 32, where a cable car descends a steep cliff-face to some sulphurous open-air baths overlooking the river. Accommodation (www.iyaonsen.co.jp, in Japanese; per person incl meals ¥16,950) is available. Infrequent buses run from Awa Ikeda station, bound for the Kazura-bashi.
Lapis Ōboke (0883-84-1489; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm), just north of JR Ōboke station, is a geology museum that doubles as a tourist information centre.
Excellent budget accommodation is available 3km from JR Ōboke station at riverside Ku-Nel-Asob (090-9778-7133; www.k-n-a.com; dm ¥2600; ). Accommodation is in simple but attractive communal tatami rooms, and the friendly English-speaking owners can provide free pick-ups/drop-offs at JR Ōboke station. A kitchen is available, and food can be bought at Bokemart, 30m from the train station. Since the house doesn’t have a bath, a ride to nearby Iya Onsen is offered for ¥500, including entry to the onsen.
Another option is Awa Ikeda Youth Hostel (0883-72-5277; dm nonmembers ¥3850; ), part of the Mitsugon-ji mountain-temple that’s complex about 5km from the station in Awa Ikeda. It’s quite isolated, and the tatami rooms are a bit on the spartan side, but the real appeal here is the ambience provided by the attached mountain-temple. Book ahead if you need a pick-up at JR Awa Ikeda station (6pm only). Meals are available.
There is spectacular scenery in the deep canyons along Old Rte 32 – infrequent public buses (¥880, 55 minutes, 7.15, 10.15am and 12.15pm) ply this narrow route between Awa Ikeda and the Iya Valley. However, if you have your own wheels, you can go at your own pace and really appreciate the beauty of the region.
Nishi Iya
The highlight in Nishi Iya is Kazura-bashi (admission ¥500; sunrise-sunset), a vine bridge that’s one of only three left in the valley (the other two are further east in Higashi Iya). Nearby, Biwa-no-taki is an impressive, 50m-high waterfall.
Kazura-bashi Camping Village (090-1571-5258; camp sites ¥500 plus per person ¥200, 4–5-person bungalows from ¥5200; Apr-Nov; ) is a camping ground 500m upriver from the vine bridge. The atmosphere is rustic, and the basic facilities are well cared for.
For more-upscale accommodation, try Hotel Kazura-bashi (0883-87-2171; www.kazurabashi.co.jp; per person with meals from ¥15,900; ), about a kilometre north of the bridge. The comfortable tatami rooms have terrific mountain views and there’s a hilltop onsen.
For a taste of local Iya soba, try Iya Bijin Keikoku-ten (0883-87-2009; 9-3