Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [505]
Higashi Iya
To escape the throngs at the vine bridge in Nishi Iya, head 30km east to the spectacular Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-bashi (admission ¥500, sunrise-sunset) in Higashi Iya, where two secluded vine bridges hang side by side high over the river. A self-propelled wooden cable-cart is another fun way to cross the river; there’s a small public camping area on the other side.
The Higashi Iya Folk Museum (0883-88-2286; admission ¥300; 9.30am-5pm) is in a large red building in Kyōjō, displaying historic artefacts and items relating to the Heike legend.
Several kilometres up a narrow, winding road near Kyōjō, Buke Yashiki (0883-88-2893; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm, closed Tue & Dec-Mar) is a thatched-roof samurai-house museum commanding spectacular views of the valley. Beside the house is a Shintō shrine that is home to a massive cedar tree dating back more than 800 years.
Iyashi no Onsen-kyō (0883-88-2975; fax 0883-76-7080; www.sobanoyado.jp, in Japanese; per person with meals from ¥13,800, bungalows per person from ¥4350; ), off the main road between Kyōjō and the Higashi Iya vine bridges, is a hotel and hot-springs complex with six Japanese-style and six Western-style rooms, a bungalow and a restaurant. Nonguests can use the onsen (open 8.30am to 3.30pm October and November, to 4pm April to September, closed Wednesday) for ¥1500. During the summer months a monorail runs up the mountainside from the hotel grounds.
At Soba Dōjō (0883-88-2577; 11am-5pm Fri-Wed), also on Rte 438, you can sample a bowl of zaru soba (¥800) and even make your own (¥2500; reservation required). The restaurant has a reddish roof, and a yellow curtain hanging over the door.
Tsurugi-san
At 1955m, Tsurugi-san is the second-highest mountain in Shikoku and provides excellent hiking opportunities, as well as snowboarding in winter December to February. A chairlift goes most of the way up, after which it is a leisurely 30-minute walk to the summit. If you decide to climb all the way, you’ll pass the Tsurugi-jinja (Tsurugi Shrine) en route, which is close to a natural spring of drinkable water.
Information on the popular multiday hike between Tsurugi-san and Miune-san (1894m), as well as mountain-top accommodation and other detailed regional hiking information, can be found in Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Japan.
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SOUTHERN TOKUSHIMA-KEN
Tokushima’s spectacular southern coastline is highlighted by rocky scenery, white-sand beaches and picturesque fishing villages. In addition to the last temple in Tokushima, the region is also home to several of the island’s best surf spots.
The JR Mugi line runs down the coast as far as Kaifu, just short of the border. From Kaifu, the private Asa Kaigan railway runs two stops further to Kannoura, just across the border. From here, you can continue by bus or thumb to the cape at Muroto-misaki and on to Kōchi city. Coming the other way, trains run from Kōchi as far as Nahari – but you’ll have to rely on buses to get you around the cape.
Hiwasa
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The major attraction in the small coastal town of Hiwasa is Yakuō-ji (), Temple 23 and the last temple in Tokushima-ken. Yakuō-ji dates back to the year 726, and is famous as a yakuyoke no tera (a temple with special powers to ward off ill fortune during unlucky years). The unluckiest age for men is 42; for women, 33 is the one to watch out for. Kōbō Daishi is said to have visited in 815, the year of his own 42nd birthday. The long set of stone steps leading up to the main temple building comes in two stages: 33 steps for the women, followed by another 42 for the men. The tradition is for pilgrims to put a coin on each step – if you come when it’s busy, you may find the steps practically overflowing with one-yen coins.
About a mile from the centre of town is Ōhama () beach, a long stretch of sand where sea turtles come to lay their eggs from May to August each