Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [517]
Orientation
Most visitors arrive at JR Matsuyama station, which is about 500m west of the castle’s outer moat. The city centre is south of the castle, closer to the Matsuyama-shi station on the private Iyo-tetsudō line. Dōgo Onsen is 2km east of the city centre, while the ferry port is north of Matsuyama in the city of Takahama.
Information
ATMs accepting international cards can be found at the central post office and at the post office that’s a couple of minutes’ walk north of JR Matsuyama station.
Ehime Prefectural International Centre (EPIC; 943-6688; www.epic.or.jp; 1-1 Dōgo Ichiman; 8.30am-5pm, closed Sun) Provides advice, internet access and bike rental. EPIC is near the Minami-machi or Kenmin Bunkakaikan-mae tram stop. Look for the red question mark.
JTB (931-2281; 4-12-10 Sanbanchō; 10am-6pm, closed Sun) In the centre of town.
Tourist information office JR Matsuyama station (931-3914; 8.30am-8.30pm) Dōgo Onsen-mae (921-3708; 8am-4.45pm) The main office is located inside JR Matsuyama station, while a branch office is near the tram terminus for Dōgo Onsen.
Sights
MATSUYAMA-JŌ
Perched on top of Mt Katsuyama in the centre of town, the castle dominates the city, as it has for centuries. Matsuyama-jō (921-4873; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm, to 5.30pm Aug, to 4.30pm Dec & Jan) is one of Japan’s finest surviving castles, and one of the very few with anything interesting to look at inside: there are excellent displays on the history of the city and the castle from which it was ruled (much of the information has been translated uncommonly well into English).
A ropeway (one way/return ¥260/500) is on hand to whisk you up the hill, though there is a pleasant pathway if you prefer to walk. It’s worth walking down via the back slopes of the castle and stopping off at Ninomaru Shiseki Tei-en (admission ¥100; 9am-5pm, to 5.30pm Aug, to 4.30pm Dec & Jan) in the outer citadel of the fort, consisting of old gardens and modern water features. From here it’s a short wander to underwhelming Ehime Museum of Art (932-0010; Horinouchi; admission ¥3; 9.40am-6.30pm, closed Mon), which features a solitary Monet and lots of European-style works by local painters.
ISHITE-JI
East of Dōgo Onsen is Ishite-ji, 51st of the 88 Temples, and one of the largest and most impressive in the circuit. Ishite means ‘stone hand’ and comes from a legend associated with Kōbō Daishi (see the boxed text). A statue of Kōbō Daishi overlooks the temple from the hillside.
OTHER SIGHTS
Just south of Matsuyama-shi station, in the temple grounds of Shōjūzen-ji, is Shiki-dō (945-0400; 16-3 Suehiro-chō; admission ¥50; 8.30am-5pm), part of the house where famous haiku poet Shiki Masaoka (1867–1902) spent the first 17 years of his life. A more in-depth treatment of his life and work is on offer at Shiki Memorial Museum (931-5566; 1-30 Dōgo-kōen; admission ¥400; 9am-6pm, to 5pm Nov-Apr, closed Mon), in the grounds of Dōgo-kōen, a short walk east of the tram stop. The museum contains excellent displays and videos on the poet and his literary friend Natsume Sōseki, but there is no English here besides a simple pamphlet. English-speaking volunteer guides can sometimes be arranged by calling in advance the day before your visit.
Dōgo-kōen () is a small park containing the site of Yuzuki-jō, the former residence of the Kōno clan that ruled Iyo province in feudal times. Articles unearthed during recent excavations are on display in Yuzuki-jō Museum (941-1480; admission free; 9am-5pm, closed Mon), near the west entrance of the park.
Isaniwa-jinja (947-7447), a short walk east of Dōgo Onsen, was built in 1667. Designated a national treasure, the shrine was modelled on Kyoto’s Iwashimizu-Hachimangū.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Matsuyama Youth Hostel (933-6366; www.matsuyama-yh.com/english/index.html; 22-3 Dōgo-himezuka;