Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [518]
Check Inn Matsuyama (998-7000; fax 998-7801; www.checkin.co.jp/matsuyama, in Japanese; 2-7-3 Sanban-chō; s/tw from ¥4380/7700; ) This swish hotel is excellent value for money, with well-equipped modern rooms, chandeliers in the lobby, and an onsen on the roof. A short walk from the Ōkaidō arcade, the hotel is convenient to the city’s nightlife and restaurants. LAN internet is in all rooms and there are consoles in the lobby.
Tōyoko Inn (941-1045; fax 941-2046; www.toyoko-in.com; 1-10-8 Ichiban-chō; s/d with breakfast ¥5460/8190; ) A chain hotel with somewhat small but comfortable rooms. One minute from the Katsuyama-chō stop on the tram line, and a short walk from the restaurants and bars. There is LAN access in all rooms, and there are terminals in the lobby.
Terminal Hotel Matsuyama (947-5388; fax 947-6457; www.th-matsuyama.jp, in Japanese; 9-1 Miyata-chō; s/tw ¥5775/10,500; ) Slap bang in front of the station, this faded business hotel has large(ish) rooms and all the usual facilities, including internet access from a computer in the lobby. It’s a good option if you have an early train to catch.
MIDRANGE
Millennia Hotel Matsuyama (943-1011; fax 921-4111; 2-5-5 Honmachi; s/tw ¥6800/10,900) Spacious and comfortable rooms, along with satellite TV and a dim-sum restaurant, make this hotel near the castle moat a good option. It’s directly opposite the Honmachi 3-chōme tram stop.
TOP END
Reservations at the following ryokan are mandatory.
Dōgo Kan (941-7777; www.dogokan.co.jp, in Japanese; 7-26 Dōgo Takōchō; per person with meals Mon-Fri from ¥15,000, Sat & Sun from ¥21,000; ) On a slope behind the Tsubaki-no-yu public baths, multistorey Dōgo Kan hotel offers world-class sophistication with a healthy smattering of opulence. Elegant tatami rooms and luxurious baths are the order of the day here, though a few Western-style rooms are available at somewhat cheaper rates.
Funaya (947-0278; fax 943-2139; www.dogo-funaya.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-33 Dōgo Yunomachi; per person with meals from ¥22,050; ) A short walk from the Dōgo Onsen tram station along the road that leads up to Isaniwa-jinja, this luxurious hotel has been in business for more than 350 years. Natsume Sōseki and various members of the royal family are among the famous people who have stayed here. Despite its unpromising exterior, Funaya is centred on an exquisite garden and features elegant tatami rooms (and a few Western-style rooms) and private onsen that draw their water from the famous spring.
Eating
The area around the Ginten-gai and Ōkaidō shopping arcades in central Matsuyama is full of places at which to eat and drink.
Goshiki Sōmen Morikawa (933-3838; 3-5-4 Sanban-chō; meals ¥700-1500; 11am-8.30pm) Next to the central post office is this elegant Matsuyama institution, which specialises in goshiki sōmen (thin noodles in five different colours). You’ll recognise it by the piles of colourful noodles in the window waiting to be snapped up and taken home as souvenirs. Set meals are around ¥1500; there is a picture menu.
Tori-sen (908-5565; 3-2-22 Niban-chō; 5.30pm-midnight) Yakitori fans will love this free-range gourmet-chicken take on Japan’s favourite beer snack. It’s in a crowded street full of restaurants and bars parallel to the Ōkaidō arcade. There’s a huge range of choices, and although there’s no English menu, the enthusiastic staff are eager to help. The tori sashimi (raw chicken sashimi selection; ¥2000) is tastier than you might expect; the Kōchin setto (gourmet chicken set; ¥2000) is another good option. Look for the red curtain over the door that has the Japanese character for chicken on it: .
Tengu no Kakurega (931-1009; 2-5-17 Sanban-chō; 5pm-midnight, to 1am Fri & Sat) A chic young people’s izakaya