Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [535]
Eating
To most Japanese, Hakata means tonkotsu-rāmen – specifically, noodles in a distinctive broth made from pork bones. Fukuoka is also famed for yatai – movable hawker-style food stalls. The majority of the yatai are by the river in Nakasu, in front of Canal City and scattered around Tenjin, especially where Oyafuko-dōri meets Shōwa-dōri. They open at dusk and soon most seats are taken. Let the aromas and the chatty conversation guide you.
Hakata-ya (291-3080; 9-151 Kami-kawabata; dishes from ¥290; 24hr) On a corner just off the Kawabata-shōtengai (shopping street) you’ll find the cheapest rāmen in town. It’s a ’70s-looking shop with a red-and-yellow sign between two exhaust fans pumping tasty aromas onto the street. The rāmen teishoku (noodle set meal) is an unbeatable ¥580 and comprises a noodle bowl, rice, pickles and five Hakata gyōza (dumplings) – made bite-sized so dainty Hakata women don’t have to open their mouths too wide to eat them.
Hakata Rāmen Shibaraku (714-0489; 3-2-13 Tenjin; rāmen from ¥600; lunch & dinner) Opposite the Hotel Ascent, this friendly, spotlessly clean and refreshingly spacious vendor has wantanmen (rāmen in tonkotsu pork broth loaded with wontons) for ¥930 and cold beer.
If you fancy something other than rāmen, the following may help.
Jet Diner (716-9070; 101 CePa Bldg, 1-12-52 Daimyo; burgers from ¥400; lunch 11am-3am) Juicy burgers with a twist, hot dogs, soup and salads are the theme of this slick and shiny retro diner, in a great spot off Nishi-dōri, opposite Beans. It also serves cocktails – so it’s popular with 20-somethings, and often packed. A hamburger with fries and coleslaw is ¥680.
Pik’s Coffee Shop (781-0246; http://members3.jcom.home.ne.jp/piks; 3-2-18 Tenjin; meals from ¥495; 12pm-1am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat, closed Sun) For meals à la Americana, and the closest thing to a bacon-and-egg breakfast you can get in Japan, head for this fun retro diner where everything is straight out of Kansas City, but for the people.
Murata (291-0894; 2-9-1 Reisen-machi; soba from ¥550; 11.30am-8.30pm, closed Sun; ) Opposite Hakata JBB hotel, this lovely eatery serves delicious soba (buckwheat noodles) from the Shinshū area of central Japan, prepared in a variety of ways. Try the oroshi-soba (cold noodles topped with grated daikon) for ¥950.
Curry Honpo (262-0010; www.curry-honpo.com; 6-135 Kami-kawabata; curry from ¥670; lunch & dinner; ) People flock to this Kawabata-shōtengai eatery for the delicious combustion curries with a Japanese twist. Try the pooku no yaki karee (pork combustion curry) for ¥870. There’s an amusing ‘Japanenglish’ menu and the fake wood–panelled storefront is easy to find in the arcade.
Nanak’s Indian (713-7900; 1-1-14 Maizuru; curries from ¥680; lunch & dinner; ) All your favourites are here in a typical setting, in English. The aromas wafting down to the bustling intersection of Oyafuko-dōri and Shōwa-dōri, below, are difficult to resist.
Yamasaki (762-6668; 1F Chestnut Bldg, 1-8-11 Maizuru; meals from ¥1500; lunch & dinner) Come off busy Oyafuko-dōri, for excellent fish, salads and teishoku (set meals). Grilled sanma (mackerel) or netsuke (red snapper), a salad and beer will cost you about ¥1750. There’s no English sign; look for the small ‘Chestnut’ signboard. A picture menu is available.
CHINA (282-1234; 1st fl, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Canal City; dim sum weekdays/weekends ¥2900/3300; lunch) A delightful Cantonese banquet hall offering all-you-can-eat dim sum, cooked to order from an English menu and served in the style of a five-star hotel.
The IMS building (1-7-11 Tenjin) has prime skyline views from its 12th- and 13th-floor restaurants, including No No Budo (714-1441; buffet lunch/dinner ¥1575/2100; lunch & dinner; ), a busy self-serve gourmet buffet, with Japanese and Western fresh-fish and meat dishes, noodles, salads, soups and desserts. An extra ¥1400 buys all you