Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [536]
The department stores off Tenjin-Chikagai have their own food courts and restaurants, usually on the basement and top floors.
Drinking
The weekend starts on Thursday in multicultural and party-friendly Fukuoka. Most venues stay open until 3am. The main drag, Oyafuko-dōri, roughly translates to ‘street of unruly children’ – because of the cram schools that once lined the road. In a way, the cap still fits. Tenjin and Daimyo’s maze of streets is safe and easy to explore, and great for people-watching. Gay travellers hoping to make new friends will have to search a little harder, but most of the action is south of Nakasu and Canal City in the Sumiyoshi ward. The internet is the best resource for this cloistered scene.
International Bar (714-2179; 4th fl, Urashima Bldg, 3-1-13 Tenjin) There’s free karaoke on Tuesdays at this tiny international bar, Fukuoka’s first, now showing its age.
Off Broadway (724-5383; www.offbroadwayjapan.com; 2nd fl, Beans Bldg, 1-8-40 Maizuru) One of Fukuoka’s originals and still one of the nicest, looking down on Oyafuko-dōri. The staff and crowd are friendly, and there’s a full bar menu with a good selection of Americana.
Craic & Porter Beer Bar (090-4514-9516; http://craic.mine.nu; 3-5-16 Tenjin) A tiny taste of Ireland with open windows and premium import beers on tap. Owner Mike is a friendly character, with plenty of experience in Japan. Opposite FUBAR, above ABC flower shop on Oyafuko-dōri.
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DAIMYO DISTRICT
The narrow lanes of Daimyo are home to Fukuoka’s most stylish bars and restaurants. Bar Garasu (712-8251; 1-12-28 Daimyo) draws a hip, hole-in-the-wall crowd; nearby Alohana (724-0111; Donpa Bldg, 1-11-4 Daimyo) serves up Hawaiian-Japanese (yes!) fusion plates, or if you’re feeling swanky, head to the elegant Bar Oscar (7721-5352; 6th fl, 1-10-29 Daimyo), named after jazz luminary Oscar Peterson.
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British Pub Morris (771-4774; 7th fl, Stage 1 Nishidōri Bldg, 2-1-4 Daimyo; from 5pm; ) One of the better pubs in Japan, attracting a nice mix of Japanese and gaijin (foreigner) punters. There’s a good beer selection, including Cooper’s Pale, tasty pub food and lots of space. The awesome outdoor patio perched high above trendy Daimyo is a great place to begin your evening, especially with happy-hour cocktails from ¥250 between 5pm and 7pm daily.
Small Spaces (724-3443; 1-13-12 Daimyo) While this bar may be a little tricky if you can’t speak Japanese, it’s worth a look. Cool by definition, Small Spaces is all about young Japanese doing their own thing. The cosy glow spills out onto the street through the open door and white-shuttered windows of this little wooden shack on the corner among the big-brand boutiques. There’s a blue vinyl sign. Peace, man.
VJ Bar (844-8000; 34th fl, JAL Resort Sea Hawk Hotel Fukuoka, 2-2-3 Jigyo-hama, Chuo-ku; 6pm-1am; drinks from ¥800) If you have time, money and good company, the incredible views and tasty international treats tend to justify the expense at this sleek multilevel hotel bar 123m above ground.
The spacious original Ashok’s Bar (522-0663; 2nd fl, Sakura Bldg, Sun-road Shōtengai, 1-10-19 Kiyokawa), established by Nepali expat Ashok, was one of the first international bars in Fukuoka, and its little brother, newer and more central Ashok’s Bar2 (732-3281; 203 Tenjin Bacchus-kan, 3-4-15 Tenjin) both serve Nepalese and Japanese food. Now largely favoured by Japanese, these are good spots to meet locals. Both close Sunday.
Entertainment
CLUBS
Somewhat-sleazy Nakasu island is one of the most popular entertainment districts in Japan, but you need to know what you are looking for. The area around Oyafuko-dōri is a better bet for a night on the tiles. Generally, clubs have a weekend cover charge of ¥1000 to ¥3000, with a free drink or two.
Juke Joint (762-5596; http://juke-records.net/jukejoint, in Japanese; 1-9-23 Maizuru) Funsters