Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [538]
Within Kyūshū, the Nippō line runs through Beppu and Miyazaki; the Kagoshima line through Kumamoto to Kagoshima; the Sasebo line runs Saga to Sasebo, and the Nagasaki line, to Nagasaki. The Kyūshū shinkansen runs from Shin-Yatsushiro to Kagoshima (¥5490, one hour); eventually it will extend to Hakata. You can also travel by subway and JR train to Karatsu and continue to Nagasaki by train.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Fukuoka airport is conveniently close to the city centre. The airport has three domestic terminals and an international terminal, all connected by a free shuttle bus.
The subway from the domestic terminals takes just five minutes to reach JR Hakata Station (¥250) and 11 minutes to Tenjin (¥250). Buses run frequently between JR Hakata Station and the international terminal.
Airport taxis cost around ¥1600 to Tenjin/Hakata.
BUS
City bus services operate from the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre Building adjacent to JR Hakata Station and from the Nishitetsu Tenjin Bus Terminal. Many stop in front of the station (Hakata-guchi). Specially marked Nishitetsu buses have a flat ¥100 rate for city-centre rides.
From stand E at the Fukuoka Kōtsū Centre Building, bus 11 or 19 goes to Hakata Pier International Terminal (¥220), while bus 47 or 48 reaches Bayside Place for ferries to islands.
SUBWAY
Fukuoka has three subway lines. The Kūkō (airport) line runs from Fukuoka domestic airport terminal to Meinohama Station via Hakata, Nakasu-Kawabata and Tenjin Stations. The Hakozaki line runs from Nakasu-Kawabata Station to Kaizuka. The Nanakuma line runs from Tenjin-minami to Hashimoto. Fares around town start at ¥200; a one-day pass costs ¥600/300 per adult/child six to 11. Trains run from 5.30am to 12.25am.
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DAZAIFU
092 / pop 67,830
Dazaifu, former governmental centre of Kyūshū, now home to Japan’s newest national museum, has a beautiful cluster of temples and a famous shrine. It’s a pleasant day trip from Fukuoka. The tourist information office (925-1880; 9am-5.30pm) at Nishitetsu-Dazaifu Station has helpful staff and an English-language map.
Sights
KYŪSHŪ NATIONAL MUSEUM
Japan’s fourth national museum (918-2807; www.kyuhaku.com; 4-7-2 Ishizaka, Dazaifu City; adult/student ¥420/210; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) opened in 2005, the country’s first since 1900. This striking structure in the tranquil hills of Dazaifu resembles a massive space station for the arts. Highlights include a fascinating Silk Road exhibit, stone carvings of AD 1st-century women with spears on horseback and a delicate 13th-century oil-spot tenmoku tea bowl. Self-guided audio tours and HD video theatre are free.
TENMAN-GŪ
Poet and scholar Sugawara-no-Michizane was a distinguished figure in the Kyoto court until he fell foul of political intrigue and was exiled to distant Dazaifu, where he died two years later. Subsequent disasters that struck Kyoto were blamed on his unfair dismissal and he became deified as Tenman Tenjin, the god of culture and scholars. Tenman-gū (922-8225; www.dazaifutenmangu.or.jp; 4-7-1 Saifu), his shrine and burial place, attracts countless visitors, among them students in hope of passing their college entrance exams. The Hondō (main hall) was rebuilt in 1591.
Behind the shrine is the Kankō Historical Museum (; admission ¥200; 9am-4.30pm Wed-Mon), with dioramas showing events in Tenjin’s life, and the treasure house (; admission ¥300; 9am-4.30pm, closed Mon) has artefacts from his life.
Every second month the shrine hosts an omoshiro-ichi (interesting market), selling everything from antique kimonos to Mickey Mouse telephones. Dates vary, but it’s a great chance to find some treasure – check with tourist information at the station.
KŌMYŌZEN-JI
Secreted away on the southern edge of Dazaifu inside this small temple (922-4053; admission by donation ¥200;