Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [539]
OTHER SIGHTS
The Kyūshū Historical Museum (; 923-0404; admission free; 9am-4pm, closed Mon), not far beyond Kōmyōzen-ji (above), showcases artefacts from the Stone to Middle Ages.
Nestled among rice paddies, Kaidan-in () dates from 761 and was one of the most important ordination monasteries in Japan. Adjacent Kanzeon-ji (; 922-1811) dates from 746 but only the great bell, said to be the oldest in Japan, remains from the original construction. Its treasure hall (; admission ¥500; 9am-4.30pm) has an impressive collection of statuary, most of it wood, dating from the 10th to 12th centuries. Many of the items show Indian or Tibetan influence.
Dazaifu Exhibition Hall (; 922-7811; admission ¥150; 9am-4.30pm, closed Mon) displays finds from local archaeological excavations. Nearby are the Tofurō ruins (), foundations of the ancient government buildings. Enoki-sha () is where Sugawara-no-Michizane died. His body was transported from here to its burial place, now Tenman-gū, on the ox cart that appears in so many local depictions.
Getting There & Around
The private Nishitetsu line connects Nishitetsu-Fukuoka (Tenjin; opposite) with Dazaifu (¥390, 25 minutes). Change trains at Nishitetsu-Futsukaichi Station. Bicycles can be rented (per three hours/day ¥300/500) at Nishitetsu Dazaifu Station.
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FUTSUKAICHI ONSEN
092
About 300m south of JR Futsukaichi Station, this unassuming onsen (hot springs) town has public baths grouped together in the old main street. Favoured by traditionalists, Gozen-yu (; 928-1126; admission ¥200; 9am-9pm, closed 1st & 3rd Wed) is the most characteristic. From JR Futsukaichi Station, cross back over the tracks, then follow the road under the torii (shrine gate) and across the stream.
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TACHIARAI
0942
Many locals don’t know about Tachiarai Heiwa Kinenkan (; 23-1227; admission ¥500; 9.30am-5pm), a tiny memorial museum established by ex-aviators and residents of Tachiarai, a small farmland village near Ogōri. The museum commemorates Japanese killed in WWII, including kamikaze pilots and townspeople who died during a USAF B-29 bombing on 27 March 1945.
Although little is labelled in English, it’s a strangely affecting place, with wartime memorabilia and a Japanese fighter plane, retrieved from Hakata Bay where it crashed in 1942.
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KURUME
0942
The town of Kurume, south of Dazaifu, is known for splash-dyed indigo textiles, papermaking, lacquerware and bamboo work, and Bridgestone rubber.
Narita-san (; 21-7500; 7am-5pm), a branch of the temple outside Tokyo (Click here), is the town’s biggest attraction. Its 62m-high statue of the goddess of mercy, Kannon, stands beside a miniaturised replica of Borobudur. Inside the statue you can climb up past Buddhist treasures and religious dioramas right into the divine forehead.
Ishibashi Museum of Art (; 39-1131; www.ishibashi-museum.gr.jp; adult/child ¥500/300; 10am-5pm, closed Mon) boasts a private collection of Asian and Western art assembled by the founder of Bridgestone, who felt strongly that art should be accessible to everybody. The museum is 1km from the Nishitetsu-Kurume Station.
Kurume is 40 minutes from Fukuoka on the JR Kagoshima line (¥720).
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SAGA-KEN
Karatsu is at the base of the scenic Higashi-Matsūra Peninsula, whose dramatic coastline has been pounded into shape by the waves of the Sea of Genkai.
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KARATSU
0955 / pop 130,150
It’s saddening to say that seaside Karatsu, a world-renowned pottery town, is noticeably suffering the strain of depopulation. Unless you’re a pottery fanatic, you may be disappointed by Karatsu’s failure to deliver as the promising tourist destination it once was.
Historically, Karatsu’s Korean influences elevated the town’s craft from useful ceramicware to art. It’s true that Karatsu ware is of the finest quality, but the beach is grotty, the