Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [540]
Sights & Activities
Karatsu-jō (72-5697; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm) is picturesquely perched on a hill overlooking the sea, but is a modern reconstruction. It houses antique ceramics, samurai armour and archaeological displays.
Karatsu-jinja (72-2264) is a scenic shrine in the centre of the city, near the Hikiyama Festival Float Exhibition Hall (72-8278; admission ¥300), which contains the 14 floats used in the Karatsu Kunchi Matsuri (below). Designs include the Aka-jishi (Red Lion), samurai helmets, a dragon and a chicken.
Around town are a number of kilns and studios where you can see local potters at work, and there are also ceramic shops along the street between Karatsu Station and the town centre. The Nakazato Tarōemon (72-8171; admission free) kiln-gallery is about 350m southeast of the station.
Adjacent to Karatsu Station, Karatsu Ware Federation Exhibition Hall (73-4888; 2nd fl, Arupino Bldg) displays local potters’ works and provides contact information. Many of the items on display are for sale from ¥500.
A bicycle track cuts through the pine trees planted behind the 5km-long Niji-no Matsubara Beach.
Festivals & Events
Doyō-yoichi (; Saturday-night market) Held in the town centre over four consecutive Saturdays from late July.
Karatsu Kunchi Matsuri () From 2 to 4 November, Karatsu comes to life in this spectacular festival, designated a festival of national cultural importance, dating from 1592. At the highlight of the celebrations, townsfolk carrying massive, exquisitely decorated hikiyama (floats) parade from Nishinohama beach into town.
Sleeping & Eating
Business Hotel SOLA (72-3003; www.hotel-sola.com, in Japanese; s with breakfast buffet ¥4900; ) This bland business hotel offers single rooms only. LAN cable internet is available.
Niji-no-Matsubara Hotel (73-9111, 0120-73-9100; fax 75-9991; s/d/tw from ¥5000/8400/10,500; ) Location is everything, but the beach out the front of this once-bargain property needs attention, as do the rooms. All have a nice outlook facing the beach or the pine forest. It’s a short bus (¥160) or taxi (¥900) ride from Karatsu Station. The hotel has free bike rental, as long as you return by 6pm.
Kiage (73-8080; Karatsu Station; lunch & dinner) Next to the turnstiles, Kiage serves up tasty noodles, gyōza and other hearty station fare. A massive rāmen and fried rice combo costs ¥750. Picture menu.
Mambō (75-1881; Karatsu Station; dishes from ¥800; lunch & dinner) Pick up a boxed meal for the train, or sit down for the tenzaru udon (tempura and chilled noodles, ¥1260) at this eatery with food displays.
Ajidokoro Sakamoto (72-2842; 4-2-19 Higashi-Karatsu, dishes from ¥600; dinner) All the regulars are here; tempura, katsudon, sushi and sashimi. There’s a picture menu and the friendly owners of this quiet eatery aren’t unused to foreigners walking in from the nearby hotels.
Kawashima Tōfu (72-2423; www.zarudoufu.co.jp, in Japanese; set meals ¥1575-2675; 8am-noon) Close to the station, Kawashima Tōfu has been in business since the Edo period. Zaru-dōfu, its speciality, is scooped like ice cream and served exquisitely in set meals on Karatsu-yaki plates (Click here). A sampler course starts at ¥1575. Reservation only, maximum 10 people.
There’s usually a morning market at the west end of the beach, from dawn until 9am.
Getting There & Around
From Fukuoka, take the Kūkō subway line from Hakata or Tenjin to the end of the line at Meinohama, then change to the JR Chikuhi line to reach Karatsu (¥1110, 70 minutes). From Karatsu to Nagasaki (¥2420, 3½ hours) take the JR Karatsu line to Saga, and the JR Nagasaki line from there.
From the Ōtemachi bus centre (73-7511), highway buses depart for Fukuoka (¥1000, 70 minutes) and Nagasaki (¥2400, two hours).
Tourists are