Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [541]
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KYūSHū POTTERY TOWNS
In mountainous Kyūshū many villages had difficulty growing rice and looked towards other industries to survive. Access to good clay, forests and streams made potterymaking a natural choice and a number of superb styles can be found here, many of Korean origin.
Karatsu, Arita and Imari are the major pottery towns of Saga-ken. From the early 17th century pottery was produced in this area by captive Korean potters, experts who were zealously guarded so that neither artist, nor the secrets of their craft, could escape. Pottery from this area, with its brightly coloured glazes, is highly esteemed domestically and worldwide.
Arita (below) Highly decorated porcelain, usually with squares of blue, red, green or gold.
Imari (below) Celebrated fine, white-and-blue porcelain.
Karatsu Marked by subtle earthy tones, prized for use in the tea ceremony.
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YOBUKO
This quaint dwindling fishing port has a wonderful morning market for fish and produce, but the main action is over by 8am. A series of wooden ryokan, charging from around ¥9500 per person (including meals) lines a narrow lane alongside the waterfront; rooms look out onto the bay, where nightly you can watch the flickering lights of the departing fishing boats heading out to sea. Local delicacies include squid sashimi and tempura. Shōwa buses run from Karatsu to Yobuko (¥730, 30 minutes).
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IMARI
0955 / pop 57,900
Imari is the name commonly associated with pottery from this area, which is actually produced outside the town. Tourist brochures are available at Imari City Information (23-3479; 8.30am-6pm) at JR Imari Station.
Ōkawachiyama (), with 20 working pottery kilns, is a 20-minute bus ride from Imari (¥150). Buses operate weekdays only. Arrive by midday to allow time for exploring. The bridge entering Ōkawachiyama is decorated with pottery shards. The bus stops near the bridge, and the village is on the hillsides on either side of the river. At the bottom of the hill Kataoka Tsurutarō Kōgeikan (; 22-3080; admission ¥300) gallery is an austere structure dedicated to the intense work of potter-genius Sawada Chitōjin. Uphill, Nabeshima Hanyō-kōen (; 23-1111) shows the techniques and living conditions of feudal-era potters.
Inside a narrow shopping arcade near the train station, Akira Kurosawa Memorial Satellite Studio (; 22-9630; admission ¥500; 9am-5.30pm, closed 2nd & 4th Mon) has little English labelling, but this shouldn’t deter fans of one of cinema’s greatest visionaries. Explore three floors of film memorabilia and glimpse behind-the-scenes documentaries and rare footage. There’s also a lunch and wine bar.
Karatsu is connected with Imari (¥630, 50 minutes) by the JR Chikuhi line. Local buses to Ōkawachiyama depart from the main bus terminal, a few blocks west of the train station, where you can also catch direct buses to Fukuoka (¥2250, two hours).
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ARITA
0955 / pop 21,390
Kaolin clay was discovered here in 1615 by Ri Sampei, a naturalised Korean potter, enabling the manufacture of fine porcelain in Japan for the first time. By the mid-17th century it was being exported to Europe. The town of Arita is a beautiful example of how tourism can support the preservation of history and culture. The friendly staff at the tiny tourist information desk (42-4052; www.arita.or.jp/index_e.html; 9am-5pm) inside Arita Station can assist with maps, timetables and accommodation, predominantly small private minshuku (Japanese guest houses) and ryokan.
An annual pottery fair is held from 29 April to 5 May.
Shops line the main street leading out from the station towards the Kyūshū Ceramics Museum (; 43-3681; admission free; 9am-4.30pm, closed Mon), a converted warehouse showcasing the development of ceramic arts in Kyūshū. Pottery connoisseurs