Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [543]
The tourist information centre (22-2015; 8am-5pm) nearby the bus terminal has lots of English-language materials and can book accommodation.
The main town, Hirado, is small enough to navigate on foot. The Matsūra Historical Museum (; 22-2236; admission ¥500; 8am-5.30pm) is housed in the stunning residence of the Matsuura clan, who ruled the island from the 11th to the 19th centuries. Among the treasures is Kanun-tei, a chanoyu (tea ceremony) house for the unusual Chinshin-ryū warrior-style tea ceremony that is still practised on the island. Hirado Christian Museum (; 28-0176; admission ¥200; 8am-5pm Jan-Nov) exhibits items including a Maria-Kannon statue that the ‘hidden Christians’ used in place of the Virgin Mary.
Hirado-jō (; 22-2201; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5.30pm) presides over the town, with an enormous number of rebuilt structures. Inside you’ll see traditional armour and clothing, and a few artefacts from the hidden-Christian era. There are fine views over the islands of the Gotō-rettō from Cape Shijiki. About midway down the beautiful west coast of the island, Neshiko Beach is a lovely, long stretch of sand, while Senri-ga-hama is renowned for windsurfing. Hotel Ranpū (; 23-2111), near the beach, rents windsurfing gear.
Jangara Matsuri (), a folk festival held on 18 August, is particularly colourful. It is quite different from mainland festivals and is reminiscent of Okinawa or Korea. Arrive in Hirado by late morning, if possible, for the afternoon events. From 24 to 27 October, the Okunchi Matsuri () has dragon and lion dancing at Kameoka-jinja.
In Hirado-guchi, the closest mainland town, there’s an excellent youth hostel (; 57-1443; dm ¥3360; ) with two lovely rotemburo (outdoor baths) and a sprawling grassy campground. There are private rooms (from ¥8400) and a restaurant.
Hirado-guchi (aka Tabira) is accessible by bus from Sasebo (¥1300, 1¼ hours), and by train (¥1190, 1½ hours). Local buses cross the bridge to Hirado town (¥260, 10 minutes). Express buses (¥1450, 1½ hours) and trains (¥1600, 1½ hours) run from Nagasaki to Sasebo.
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GOTŌ-RETTŌ
The two main islands in the Gotō-rettō group are Fukue-jima and Nakadōri-shima, but there are over 100 small islands and islets. Historically, these islands were a refuge for Japanese Christians fleeing the Edo government’s anti-Christian repression; today the main attraction is their natural beauty. If you have the time, money and inclination, they are isolated enough to be worth the effort.
Fukue, the fishing port on the island of the same name, is the main town in the group. The town’s castle Ishida-jō was rebuilt in the 1860s. There’s a street of samurai houses nearby. Ondake, about 800m from Fukue, is a cotyloid (cup-shaped) volcano (315m) covered by grass and with an astronomical observatory. Dozaki Tenshudō (; 0959-73-0705; admission ¥300; 9am-4.30pm) has exhibits of artefacts from the ‘hidden Christian’ era, and is the oldest church in the Gotō islands. It’s a 30-minute bus ride from Fukue. The island’s most popular beaches are on the north central coast.
All Nippon Koku (ANK) has flights to Gotō-Fukue airport from Fukuoka (¥18,380, 35 minutes, three daily). Jetfoils leave Nagasaki for Fukue two to five times daily (¥7070, 1½ hours); regular car ferry services depart three times daily (¥2700, 3½ hours). Bicycles and cars can be rented on Fukue-jima.
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NAGASAKI-KEN
NAGASAKI
095 / pop 451,740
The tragedy of Nagasaki’s atomic devastation overshadows the story of its colourful trading history. Today Nagasaki has plenty to offer visitors – an array of