Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [544]
History
Nagasaki’s role in Japan’s emergence as a modern nation is layered and tragic. The arrival of an off-course Chinese ship in 1543, with guns and Portuguese adventurers aboard, heralded the beginning of the long period where Nagasaki was Japan’s principal connection with Asia and the West. The first visitors were followed by the missionary St Francis Xavier in 1560, then many others, in the dramatic period that became known as Japan’s ‘Christian Century’ (1549–1650).
Although their visits were brief, these Portuguese contacts were to have far-reaching effects. Among the first Japanese to be converted to Christianity was a minor daimyō (regional lord), Ōmura Sumitada, who established Nagasaki as the principal trading port. Although the Portuguese acted as intermediaries between Japan, China and Korea, the trade was mutually profitable and Nagasaki quickly became a fashionable and wealthy city.
By 1587, Japanese authorities who’d begun to see Christianity as a threat began to expel the Jesuits, and in 1597 ceremoniously crucified 26 European and Japanese Christians. Catholic Portuguese and Spanish traders were expelled in favour of the Protestant Dutch, who were thought of as being more interested in trade and less in religion. Christianity was officially banned in 1614.
The final chapter of the ‘Christian Century’ was the Shimabara peasant uprising of 1637–38, perceived as a Christian revolt at the time, resulting in the authorities forbidding any contact with foreigners and banning all travel outside Japan. The single exception, however, was the closely watched Dutch enclave of Dejima in Nagasaki harbour. Via this small outpost, a trickle of Western science and culture found its way into Japan. When in 1859, it reopened its doors to the West, Nagasaki was a major economic force, particularly in shipbuilding, the industry that ultimately led to its tragic destruction on 9 August 1945 (for details, see the boxed text).
Orientation
About 2km southeast of JR Nagasaki Station, the Hamano-machi arcade and Shianbashi entertainment district are where the locals go to shop and eat. Nagasaki’s sights are scattered over a broad area, but it’s feasible to walk from Shianbashi through Chinatown, all the way south to the Dutch slopes and Glover Garden. The atomic bomb hypocentre is in the opposite direction in the suburb of Urakami, about 2.5km north of JR Nagasaki Station.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Kinokuniya (Map; 811-4919; 4th fl, Yume-saito Bldg, 10-1 Motofune-chō) Has English and foreign-language titles, plus CDs, DVDs and maps.
INTERNET ACCESS
Chikyū-shimin Hiroba (Map; 842-2002; www1.city.nagasaki.nagasaki.jp/kokusai/people_hiroba/people_hiroba_e.html; 2nd fl, Nagasaki Brick Hall, 2-38 Morimachi; per hr ¥100; 9am-8pm, closed 29 Dec–3 Jan) The ‘Global Citizens Room’ was established to promote cultural exchange. It’s a five-minute walk from Urakami Station, behind Mirai Cocowalk Nagasaki.
Cybac Café (Map; 818-8050; 3rd & 4th fl, Hashimoto Bldg, 2-46 Aburaya-chō; registration fee ¥300 then 1st 30/subsequent 15min ¥300/100) This enormous internet cafe has showers, darts, drinks and more.
Internet Café Shin (Map; 822-7824; 5-25 Furukawamachi, Hamano-machi; per 30min ¥210; 8am-8pm) This quiet internet cafe opposite Minato Park near Chinatown is famed for its Turkish omelette topped with tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlets) and demisauce.
Kinko’s (Map; 818-2522; 1st fl, Amu Plaza, 1-1 Onoue-machi; per 10min ¥210; 8am-10pm Sat-Mon, 24hr Tue-Fri) Next to 18-Bank.
MONEY
All postal savings and Seven Bank ATMs allow you to withdraw cash in English from foreign cards bearing the Visa, MasterCard, Plus, Maestro or Cirrus symbols. Several branches of the 18-Bank (Map) handle foreign-currency exchange.
TOURIST INFORMATION