Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [547]
A short distance further, turn down the path to Kōtai-ji (Map; 823-7211; 1-1 Tera-machi), the only temple in Nagasaki with active monks-in-training and a favourite with local artists; it has a notable bell dating from 1702. The final temple along the walk, Kōfuku-ji (Map; 822-1076; 4-32 Tera-machi; admission ¥200; 6am-6pm), dates from the 1620s and is noted for the Ming architecture of the main hall. Like Sōfuku-ji, it is an Ōbaku Zen temple – and the oldest in Japan.
Parallel to Tera-machi, the Nakajima-gawa is crossed by a picturesque collection of 17th-century stone bridges. At one time, each bridge was the distinct entranceway to a separate temple. The best known is the double-arched Megane-bashi (; Spectacles Bridge; Map), so-called because the reflection of the arches in the water looks like a pair of Meiji-era spectacles! Six of the 10 bridges, including Megane-bashi, were washed away by flooding in 1982, but restored using the recovered stones.
NAGASAKI MUSEUM OF HISTORY & CULTURE
Just east of Shōfuku-ji temple you’ll find this handsome museum (Map; 818-8366; www.nmhc.jp; 1-1-1 Tateyama; admission ¥600; 8.30am-7pm, closed 3rd Tue of month). Opened in 2005, its focus is on Nagasaki’s proud history of overseas exchange and the main gallery is a fabulous reconstruction of a section of the Edo-period Nagasaki Magistrate’s Office, which controlled trade and diplomacy. There’s a free English audio guide. The closest tram stop is Sakura-machi.
SHIANBASHI
The Shianbashi tram stop marks the site of the former bridge that pleasure seekers would cross to enter the Shianbashi (loosely meaning ‘Bridge of Consideration’) quarter. Men might stop here and contemplate a night of pleasure versus the journey home. The bridge and the elegant old brothels are long gone but the district is still at the heart of nightlife in Nagasaki.
Modern Shianbashi still has a few reminders of its colourful past. Just south of Shianbashi tram stop, you’ll find Fukusaya Castella Cake Shop (Map; 821-2938; www.castella.co.jp, in Japanese; 3-1 Funadaiku-machi), trading since 1624! It’s a must for history buffs and those with a sweet tooth. Left at this junction, past the police box, you’ll find the driveway to Ryōtei Kagetsu, now an elegant and expensive restaurant but once an even more expensive brothel.
DEJIMA
From the mid-17th century until 1855, the small Dutch trading post of Dejima provided Japan with its sole peephole to the world outside. Resident and itinerant Dutch were segregated here and their only contact was with Japanese trading partners and courtesans. The area around Dejima Wharf (Map) was the focal point for this activity, and was recently converted into a picturesque collection of open-air restaurants, bars and galleries.
Dejima Museum (Map; 822-2207; www1.city.nagasaki.nagasaki.jp/dejima/main.html, in Japanese; 8-21 Dejima; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm) has exhibits on Nagasaki’s trading history. Although the island was submerged during 19th-century land-reclamation projects, the trading post, now a national historic site, has been restored.
SHINCHI CHINATOWN
During Japan’s long period of seclusion, Chinese traders were theoretically just as restricted as the Dutch, but in practice they were relatively free. Only a couple of buildings remain from the old area (Map), but Nagasaki still has an energetic Chinese community, evident in the city’s culture, architecture, festivals