Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [548]
GLOVER GARDEN
At the southern end of Nagasaki, some former homes of the city’s pioneering Meiji-period European residents have been reassembled in this hillside garden (Map; 822-8223; www.glover-garden.jp; 8-1 Minami-yamatemachi; adult/student ¥600/300; 8am-9.30pm 27 Apr–9 Oct, to 6pm 10 Oct–26 Apr), named after Thomas Glover (1838–1911), who built Japan’s first railway, helped establish the shipbuilding industry and whose arms-importing operations influenced the course of the Meiji Restoration.
The best way to explore the steep garden is to take the moving walkways to the top of the hill then walk back down. The Mitsubishi No 2 Dock building is highest, with displays about the city’s shipyard, before Walker House, the Ringer and Alt Houses, and finally Glover House. Halfway down is a statue of Japanese opera singer Tamaki Miura, often referred to as Madame Butterfly. You exit the garden through the Nagasaki Traditional Performing Arts Museum, which has a display of dragons and floats used in the colourful Kunchi Matsuri.
ŌURA CATHOLIC CHURCH
Soon after this hilltop church (Map; 823-2628; admission ¥300; 8.30am-5pm) opened its doors to Nagasaki’s foreign residents in 1864, a group of Japanese arrived to announce that Christianity had been secretly practised among the Urakami community throughout the 250 years it had been banned. The government was still anxious about Western contact, and when this news leaked out, thousands of Urakami residents were exiled to other parts of Japan until Christianity was legalised in 1873. The church is dedicated to the 26 Christians crucified in 1597 (Click here for more information). It’s more like a museum than a place of worship and an admission fee is charged. To pray for free, use the regular church just opposite.
DUTCH SLOPES
The gently inclined flagstone streets known as the Dutch Slopes (Oranda-zaka; Map) were once lined with wooden Dutch houses. Several buildings have been beautifully restored and offer glimpses of Japan’s early interest in the West. Quaint Koshashin-shiryōkan and Maizō-shiryōkan (Map; 820-3386; 6-25 Higashi-yamatemachi; combined admission ¥100; 9am-5pm, closed Mon) have a collection of vintage photographs and archaeological artefacts between them, but the wonderful Higashi-yamate Chikyūkan (www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~chikyu/e_frame.htm; 820-3386) has a fabulous ‘World Foods Restaurant’. Here, each day, a different chef comes to prepare and share an inexpensive meal from his/her home country. This little gem, borne of good intent, is what travel and cultural exchange is all about.
Behind the jauntily coloured Kōshi-byō, a Confucian shrine, the Historical Museum of China (Map; 824-4022; 10-36 Ōuramachi; admission ¥525; 8.30am-5pm) has exhibits on loan from Beijing. The original shrine dates from 1893, but was destroyed in the fires following the A-bomb explosion.
SIEBOLD MEMORIAL MUSEUM
Beyond Shin-Nakagawa-machi tram stop by 500m is the site of Dr Siebold’s house (off Map;823-0707; 2-7-40 Narutaki; admission ¥100; 9am-5pm, closed Mon), an imposing Western-style home set in a leafy neighbourhood of narrow lanes and flowerboxes. The doctor helped introduce Western science and medicine to Japan in the 1820s, but was later expelled for trying to smuggle Japanese goods. His daughter Ine was one of Japan’s first female obstetricians.
INASA-YAMA LOOKOUT
From the western side of the harbour, a cable car (ropeway; Map; 861-6321; return ¥1200; 9am-10pm Mar-Nov, to 9pm Dec-Feb) ascends every 20 minutes to the top of 333m-high Inasa-yama, offering superb views over Nagasaki, particularly at night. Buses 3 and 4 leave from outside JR Nagasaki Station; get off at the Ropeway-mae stop and walk up the stone steps through the grounds of Fuchi-jinja.
Tours
Nagasaki Harbour Cruises (Map; 822-5002; Nagasaki Harbour Terminal Bldg) offers a great way to glimpse picturesque Nagasaki (adult/child ¥1980/1300 with discount, one hour). Check at the ferry terminal for up-to-date schedules.
Festivals & Events
Peiron dragon