Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [549]
Shōrō-nagashi On 15 August in this beautiful event, lantern-lit floats are carried down to the harbour in honour of one’s ancestors. The boats are handcrafted from a variety of items (bamboo, wood, rice stems etc) and vary in size depending on the family or individual. Eventually they are carried out to sea and destroyed by the waves. The best viewpoint is at Ōhato (Map).
Kunchi Matsuri Held 7–9 October, an energetic festival that features more Chinese dragons, this time dancing all around the city but especially at Suwa-jinja (Map). The festival is marked by elaborate costumes, fireworks, cymbals and giant dragon puppets on poles.
Sleeping
Wherever you choose to stay, you won’t be too far from things to do. The JR Nagasaki Station and Shianbashi areas are good for walking and public transport, while the southern extent of the city near Chinatown and Glover Garden has a lovely atmosphere.
BUDGET
Nagasaki Ebisu Youth Hostel (Map; 824-3823; www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~urakami; 6-10 Ebisumachi; dm with/without meals from ¥4300/2500; ) A tiny youth hostel with three Japanese-style dorm rooms, a bunk room and an 11pm curfew. It’s run by a friendly family with years of experience helping travellers.
Minshuku Tanpopo (Map; 861-6230; www.tanpopo-group.biz/tanpopo; 21-7 Hoeimachi; s/d/tr without bathroom ¥4000/7000/9000; ) Towards Urakami and the Peace Park, this canary yellow–painted Japanese Inn Group member is cheap and cheery. Breakfast (¥600) and dinner (¥1500) are optional.
Fukumoto Ryokan (Map; 821-0478; 3-8 Dejimamachi; r with/without 2 meals from ¥6500/4500) An older property with both Japanese- and Western-style rooms in the Dejima area. It’s near the Shiminbyōin-mae tram stop.
Nishiki-sō Bekkan (Map; 826-6371; 1-2-7 Nishikojima; s/tw with breakfast from ¥4500/8925) It’s easy to love this creaky inn perched on a crag and run by the kind and easy-going Ōmura family, whose pride in their home and city is evident. You’ll feel like a guest in a Japanese house, but with the privacy of a hotel. There’s a communal bath and laundry, but rooms with private facilities are available and the delights of Shianbashi are at your doorstep.
Hotel BelleView (Map; 826-5030; www.hotel-belleview.com, in Japanese; 1-20 Edo-machi; s/d/tw from ¥5800/7000/10,000; ) Just off the main drag near Dejima and Chinatown, this refurbished business hotel has flat-screen TVs, a breakfast bar and LAN cable internet access.
Hotel Cuore (Map; 818-9000; www.hotel-cuore.com, in Japanese; 7-3 Daikoku-chō; s/d/tw from ¥6100/8000/10,000; ; JR Nagasaki) Great value, directly opposite JR Nagasaki Station and offers free LAN cable internet and light breakfast.
MIDRANGE
Nagasaki Washington Hotel (Map; 825-8023; www.nagasaki-wh.com, in Japanese; 9-1 Shinchi; s/d from ¥6800/13,000; ) Adjacent to Chinatown, this multistorey hotel offers great value, with high-speed internet connectivity and tasteful decor.
JR Kyushu Hotel Nagasaki (Map; 832-8000; fax 832-8001; www.jrhotelgroup.com/eng/hotel/eng148.htm; 1-1 Onoue-chō; s/tw/tr ¥6900/12,600/16,200; ; JR Nagasaki) Adjacent to the station and AMU Plaza, many of the otherwise-standard rooms have good views over Nagasaki.
Hotel Monterey Nagasaki (Map; 827-7111; www.hotelmonterey.co.jp/nagasaki, in Japanese; 1-22 Ōura-machi; s/d from ¥9000/18,000; ) Excellent rates for this lovely Portuguese-themed hotel near the Dutch Slopes and Glover Garden can be found online. Rooms are spacious and light filled, the beds are comfy and there’s free internet via LAN cable. The staff is courteous and used to the vagaries of foreign guests.
Holiday Inn Nagasaki (Map; 828-1234; fax 828-0178; 6-24 Dōza-machi; s/d/tw from ¥10,000/14,000/15,000; ) Close to Shianbashi yet on a quiet laneway, this aging chain property still offers good value and has a great coffee shop-bar. LAN cable internet access is available.
Richmond Hotel Nagasaki Shianbashi (Map; 832-2525; fax 832-2526;