Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [550]
Chisun Grand Nagasaki (Map; 826-1211; fax 826-1238; www.solarehotels.com/english/chisun/grand-nagasaki/guestroom/detail.html; 35-5 Goto-chō; s/d from ¥12,000/16,000; ) This new hotel on the main drag just up from JR Nagasaki Station has sleek, small rooms with dark wood and modern styling. All rooms have flat screen TV and free high speed internet via LAN cable.
TOP END
Best Western Premier Hotel Nagasaki (Map; 821-1111; www.bestwestern.com/premier; 2-26 Takara-machi; s/d/ste from ¥15,000/23,000/45,000; ) Nagasaki’s most extravagant hotel has a vast marble lobby, and many of the comfortable rooms have harbour views, though better value can be found elsewhere. LAN cable internet is available. It’s opposite the Takara-machi tram stop.
Sakamoto-ya (Map; 826-8210; www.sakamotoya.co.jp; 2-13 Kanaya-machi; r per person with 2 meals from ¥15,750) A magnificent old and well-kept ryokan, with traditional touches, a beautiful garden and only 12 rooms.
Hotel New Nagasaki (Map; 826-8000; www.newnaga.com; s/d/tw from ¥21,700/27,700/30,000; ; JR Nagasaki) Next to JR Nagasaki Station, this well-regarded hotel has large rooms, many with bay or hillside views, and some fantastic, though pricey, Japanese-style rooms. There’s an excellent swimming pool and a number of restaurants.
Eating
Nagasaki is a culinary crossroads. The city’s Chinese and Portuguese influences converge in shippoku-ryōri, a banquet style best enjoyed in a group. Champon, the local take on rāmen, features squid, octopus, pork and vegetables in a white, salty broth. Sara-udon is the stir-fried equivalent.
Hyōuntei (Map; 821-9333; 1-8 Motoshikkui-machi; plate of gyōza ¥300; dinner) This tidy izakaya (pub-eatery) near Shianbashi tram stop is noticeable for its rustic wooden facade. Inside, there’s more of the same styling, mouth-watering gyōza and cold beer. Also try the butaniratoji (pork and shallots cooked omelette style) for ¥520. There’s an English menu if you ask.
Kairaku-en (Map; 822-4261; 10-16 Shinchi-chō; dishes ¥700-1000) Has been serving southern Chinese cuisine since 1950 and there’s a distinct possibility that some of the wonderful black-dressed, starched white aproned–servers have been there since. Expect to pay ¥1500 to ¥3000 for a few dishes or splurge on the Peking duck with miso for ¥5000. Most dishes are displayed in the window. It’s just inside the Chinatown North gate.
Shikairō (Map; 822-1296; 4-5 Matsugae-machi; champon ¥950) This huge freestanding Chinese restaurant near Glover Garden is credited as the creator of champon and has been in operation since 1899. Sara-udon is ¥900. English menus.
Sweet Marjoram (Map; 821-3700; 7-9 Dōza-machi; pizza from ¥1000; lunch & dinner) Well-priced lunch sets and tasty pastas make this central trattoria a safe bet if you’re craving Italian. Pasta set lunches including soup and salad start at ¥1000 and there’s a wine menu.
Yosso (Map; 821-0001; 8-9 Hama-machi; set meals from ¥1350; lunch & dinner, closed 2nd & 4th Tue; ) People have been coming to eat the chawanmushi teishoku (Japanese egg custard set meal; ¥1785) since 1866. Look for the string of red lanterns and the traditional shopfront.
Ginnabe (Map; 821-8213; www.ginnabe.com/home.html, in Japanese; 7 Dōza-machi; set meals from ¥1500; lunch & dinner) Combining modern and traditional, Ginnabe is a large affair, just up from the Hamano-machi arcade, with picture menus and generous teishoku starting at ¥1365.
Ryōtei Kagetsu (Map; www.ryoutei-kagetsu.co.jp, in Japanese; 822-0191; 2-1 Maruyama-machi; set meals ¥5200-15,000; lunch & dinner) A shippoku restaurant dating to 1642 when it was a high-class brothel. If you have Japanese skills or a chaperone, dining companions and a love of food, you might not flinch at the price. A kaiseki (degustation)