Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [552]
JR lines from Nagasaki head for Sasebo (kaisoku; ¥1600, 1¾ hours) or Fukuoka (tokkyū; ¥4410, two hours).
Ferries sail from a few places around Nagasaki, including Ōhato terminal, south of JR Nagasaki Station.
To travel between here and the Amakusa Archipelago, take bus 10 to Mogi port from the South Exit at JR Nagasaki Station (¥160, 30 minutes), then the ferry to Tomioka on Amakusa island (one way ¥1600, 70 minutes).
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Nagasaki’s airport is about 40km from the city. Airport buses (¥800, 45 minutes) operate from stand 4 of the Kenei bus station opposite JR Nagasaki Station (Map). A taxi costs about ¥9000.
BICYCLE
Bicycles can be rented (40% discount for JR Pass holders) from JR Nagasaki Station (Map; 826-0480) at the Eki Rent-a-Car. Some are even electric powered. Rates are reasonable (per two hours/day ¥500/1500).
BUS
A greater area is covered by buses than trams, but the bus service is less user-friendly for non-Japanese.
TRAM
The best way of getting around Nagasaki is by tram. There are four colour-coded routes numbered 1, 3, 4 and 5 (No 2 is for special events) and stops are signposted in English. It costs ¥100 to travel anywhere in town, but you can only transfer for free at the Tsuki-machi stop if you have a ¥500 all-day pass for unlimited travel, available from the Nagasaki Tourist Information Centre and many hotels. Most trams stop running before 11.30pm.
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AROUND NAGASAKI
Huis Ten Bosch
This ‘virtual-Holland’ theme park (off Map; 095-627-0526; http://english.huistenbosch.co.jp; adult/child/student from ¥3200/1000/2000; 9am-9pm) exemplifies Japan’s long fascination with the West. Huis Ten Bosch (House in the Forest), although impressive in scale and detail, with its horse-drawn carriages and windmills, is probably not the reason you find yourself in Japan.
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SHIMABARA PENINSULA
The most popular route between Nagasaki and Kumamoto is via the hilly roads of Shimabara hondō (main route). Local bus services connect with ferries from Shimabara to the Kumamoto coast, and tour buses operating between Nagasaki and Kumamoto explore the peninsula.
An uprising here led to the suppression of Christianity in Japan and the country’s subsequent two centuries of seclusion from the West. Peasant rebels made their final stand against overwhelming odds (37,000 versus 120,000) at Hara-jō, at almost the southern tip of the peninsula. The rebels held out for 80 days before being slaughtered.
On 3 June 1991, the 1359m peak of Unzen-dake erupted after lying dormant for 199 years, taking the lives of 43 journalists and scientists. Over 12,000 people were evacuated from nearby villages before the lava flow reached the outskirts of Shimabara.
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UNZEN
0957 / pop 49,460
Unzen is an active volcanic centre. Home to Unzen-Amakusa National Park, Japan’s first, Unzen’s woodsy walks and paths are clearly signposted in English. You can explore the town and nearby trails in an afternoon. The park is great for hiking and the village is a peaceful place to spend a night – the smell of sulphur soon dissipates! Day-trippers disappear by 6pm and it’s lovely to walk around the quiet streets, in summer or snow. For town maps and accommodation bookings, consult the Unzen Tourist Association (; 73-3434; 9am-5pm).
The bubbling jigoku (hells; boiling mineral hot springs) currently only boil eggs, known as onsen tamago; but a few centuries ago the same fate was reserved for 30 Christian martyrs who were tossed into bubbly Oito Jigoku.
There’s some wonderful accommodation here, most with rotemburo. Day-trippers may prefer the three public baths, all within walking distance of the bus station:
Kojigoku (; 73-3273; admission