Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [553]
Shin-yu (; 73-3545; admission ¥100; 9am-11pm, closed Wed)
Yunosato (; 73-2576; admission ¥100; 9am-10.30pm, closed 10th & 20th each month)
Sights & Activities
The Unzen Spa House (; 73-3131; admission ¥800; 9am-6pm), next to the Unzen Tourist Association office, also has a glass-blowing workshop (lessons ¥2000 to ¥3000 per 10 to 15 minutes, enough time to make something to break on your way home).
From the town, popular walks to Kinugasa, Takaiwa-san and Yadake are all situated within the national park. The Unzen Visitors Centre (; 73-3636; 7am-6pm 10 Apr–2 Nov, 9am-5pm 3 Nov–9 Apr, closed Thu), opposite the Kyūshū Hotel, has displays on flora and fauna and information in English. Around town, the 1300-year-old temple Manmyō-ji (; 73-3422), rebuilt in 1638, and the screeching, geyserlike Daikyōkan Jigoku are worth seeing.
Outside town, reached via Nita Pass, is Fugen-dake (1359m), part of the Unzen-dake range, with its popular hiking trail. The views of the lava flow from the summit are incredible.
The bus to Nita-tōge parking area, the starting point for the Fugen-dake walk, operates regularly between 9am and 3pm (¥370, 20 minutes) from Unzen’s Shimatetsu bus station (74-3131); the last bus back to Unzen leaves the Nita Pass car park at 4.30pm. A cable car (ropeway; 73-3572; ticket each way ¥610; 8.55am-5.23pm) whisks you in three minutes close to a shrine and the 1333m-high summit of Myōken-dake, from where the hike to Fugen-dake via Kunimi-wakare takes just under two hours return. You can also walk the 3.5km back from the shrine to Nita via the village and valley of Azami-dani. For a longer excursion (three hours), you can detour to Kunimi-dake (1347m). Along the way you can get a good glimpse of Japan’s newest mountain, the smoking lava dome of Mt Heisei Shinzan (1486m; literally ‘new mountain’), created in November 1990, when Fugen-dake blew its stack.
Sleeping & Eating
Unzen has numerous hotels, minshuku and ryokan with nightly rates from around ¥8500, including dinner and breakfast. A weekend surcharge usually applies.
Shirakumo-no-ike camping ground (; 73-2642; campsites from ¥300; 10 Jul–31 Aug) This picturesque summer camp site next to Shirakumo Pond is about a 600m walk downhill from the post office, then a few hundred metres from the road. Tent hire is available (¥500).
Unzen Sky Hotel (; www.unzen-skyhotel.com, in Japanese 73-3345; r per person with/without 2 meals from ¥9000/6000; ) Between Yunosato onsen and Manmyō-ji, this budget option has predominantly Japanese-style rooms and an attractive sulphur rotemburo.
Kyūshū Hotel (; 73-3234; www.kyushuhtl.co.jp/language/en/; r per person with 2 meals from ¥16,950; ) A sprawling oldie, deliciously refurbished in chocolate tones, plush fabrics and with a splash of Zen. There’s a variety of tempting room types (some with open-air baths and balconies) with rates sometimes lower if you just walk in.
Unzen Kankō Hotel (; 73-3263; www.unzenkankohotel.com, in Japanese; s/d & tw from ¥10,500/18,900; ) This grand hotel opened in 1936 and has been beautifully maintained. A destination in itself, it has a charming library, beautiful rooms and decadent day spa.
Unzen Tabi-no-biiru-kan (; 73-3113; 10am-6pm, closed Thu) Overlooking woodsy Unzen, this brewpub pours a local favourite, unzen yuagari biiru (after-bath beer) and serves pizza or a beer curry with salad from ¥950.
Getting There & Away
Buses run between Nagasaki and Unzen (¥1900, two hours) but more frequently from Isahaya (¥1400, 80 minutes). Isahaya is 35 minutes by train (¥450) from Nagasaki. Onward buses from Unzen to Shimabara (¥810, 45 minutes) stop at Shimabara’s port Click here and castle before arriving at Shimabara train station.
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SHIMABARA
0957 / pop 49,480
The ferry port to nearby Kumamoto, Shimabara is known for its clear springs, which first appeared following the 1792 eruption of Mt Unzen. The Tourist Information Office (62-3986; 8.30am-5.30pm) is inside the ferry terminal–bus station. Shimabara castle (a reconstruction), a samurai street