Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [554]
Sights
Built between 1618 and 1625, Shimabara-jō (; 62-4766; 9am-5pm) played a part in the Shimabara Rebellion and was rebuilt in 1964. The grounds have carp ponds, tangled gardens, mossy walls and picturesque pines.
The castle houses a few museums (62-4766; combined admission adult/child ¥520/260; 9am-5pm). The Shimabara Cultural Hall displays items relating to the Christian uprising, the Fugen-dake Museum details Fugen-dake’s exploits (including the colossal explosion of 1792 in which 15,000 people died, most from the resulting tsunami) and the Sculpture Museum is dedicated to the artwork of Seibō Kitamura, who sculpted the Nagasaki Peace Statue. Another small folk museum is stuffed with antiques.
In the Teppō-chō area, northwest of the castle, is a collection of samurai houses that line a pretty street. Three of the houses are open to the public, and a free rest area serves tea.
Near the Shimatetsu bus station is a carp stream, home to over 1500 fishy friends.
At Kōtō-ji is the beautiful Nehan-zō (Nirvana Statue). At 8.6m, it’s the longest reclining Buddha in Japan.
Visitors now come to experience Gamadas Dome Mt Unzen Disaster Memorial Hall (; 65-5555; www.udmh.or.jp, in Japanese; 1-1 Heisei-machi; 9am-5pm), a hi-tech museum plonked eerily at the base of the lava flow and dedicated to those lost in the 1991 eruption. It offers patrons an insight into the science of vulcanology.
Festivals & Events
The town water festival is held in early August.
Sleeping & Eating
Shimabara Youth Hostel (62-4451; 7938-3 Shimokawashiri-machi; dm HI member/nonmember ¥2850/3450) A short hike north of Shimabara-Gaikō Station will lead you to what looks like a misplaced ski chalet. There are both bunk beds and futons.
Hotel & Spa Hanamizuki (62-1000; 548 Nakamachi; s/tw ¥5800/9800; ) A bright 42-room hotel with a large onsen and a good breakfast (¥840). Some English is spoken.
Shimabara’s best-known dish, guzōni, is an acquired taste. It’s a thick soup made from seafood, vegetables and mochi (pounded rice).
Himematsu-ya (63-7272; meals from ¥800; 10am-8pm; ) Serves guzōni (¥980) and several types of rāmen (try robuke-e soba). The restaurant is in front of Shimabara-jō and there’s a picture menu.
Drinking
There’s also a cluster of izakaya around the castle.
Shimabara Mizuyashiki (62-8555; www.mizuyashiki.com, in Japanese; admission free; tea & sweets from ¥500; 11am-5pm) This Meiji-era tea house and museum features a delightful Japanese garden and collection of maneki-neko (lucky cat figurines).
Getting There & Around
JR trains from Nagasaki to Isahaya (¥450, 25 minutes) connect with the private Shimabara-tetsudō line. Trains depart hourly to Shimabara (¥1450, 1¼ hours). Shimabara Station is about 350m east of the castle.
Ferries to the Kumamoto coast depart frequently from Shimabara port between 7am and 7pm. There’s a jet ferry (adult/child ¥800/400, 30 minutes) and the slower car ferry (adult/child ¥680/340, one hour). All boats are bound for Kumamoto Port, a bus ride from the city (¥420, 30 minutes).
Local buses shuttle between Shimabara Station and the ferry terminal (¥100). Bikes can also be rented at the ferry terminal and at the train station (per hour ¥150).
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KUMAMOTO-KEN
KUMAMOTO
096 / pop 670,100
Kumamoto, gateway to the Aso region, and the city that brought you kobori (a way of swimming upright wearing a suit of samurai armour, handy for those late night commando raids) is now best known for its reconstructed castle. It has a good selection of restaurants and galleries, and has a growing population. In summer, it’s one of the hottest cities in Japan, which may explain the concentration of night owls, bars and people trying to swim upright.
Orientation & Information
JR Kumamoto Station is an inconvenient few kilometres southwest of where you want to be. The area around the Shimotōri shopping arcade is where you’ll find the central core, the bus centre, castle and other