Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [555]
On the northwest side of JR Kumamoto Station is a postal ATM. Higo Bank in central Kumamoto has currency-exchange facilities.
Cybac Café (Map; 24-3189; www.cybac.com; 5th & 6th fl, Carino Shimotōri, 1-2 Ansei-machi; membership fee/per 15min ¥300/100; 24hr) Has a city-centre location.
Kumamoto City International Centre (Map; 359-2020; 4-8 Hanabata-chō; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun & holidays) Has free 30-minute internet use, CNN news and English-language magazines on the 2nd floor.
Tourist information desk JR Kumamoto Station (Map; 352-3743; 8.30am-7pm); Kumamoto Castle parking area (Map; 322-5060; 9am-5pm) Has English-speaking assistants and accommodation listings.
Sights
KUMAMOTO-JŌ
Kumamoto’s robust castle (Map; 352-6820; Hon-maru; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) dominates the townscape. Built between 1601 and 1607, the original building was besieged and burnt during the 1877 Satsuma Rebellion, one of the final stands made by samurai against the new order. The rebels held out for 50 days before being overcome. For more on the rebellion and its leader, Saigō Takamori, see the boxed text. A free tour (in English, 322-5900) of this 19th-century reconstruction is available.
Beyond the castle is the Former Hosokawa Gyōbutei (Map; 352-6522; 3-1 Kyō-machi; admission with/without castle ¥640/300; 8.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar), a large samurai villa and garden built for the Hosokawa clan, who came into power around 1632 and held sway until the Meiji Restoration.
Closer to the main road, the Kumamoto Prefectural Museum of Art (Map; 352-2111; 2 Ninomaru; admission ¥260; 9.30am-4.30pm, closed Mon & 25 Dec–4 Jan) has ancient Buddhist sculptures and modern paintings. Its Chibajo Annexe (Map; 351-8411; 2-18 Chibajō-machi; 9.30am-6.30pm, closed Mon & 25 Dec–4 Jan), built under the Artpolis urban reconstruction project, is recognised by architects worldwide.
Kumamoto Prefectural Traditional Crafts Centre (Map; 324-4930; 3-35 Chibajō-machi; admission ¥200; 9am-5pm, closed Mon & 28 Dec–4 Jan) has displays of local Higo inlay, Yamaga lanterns, porcelain and woodcarving.
SUIZENJI-KŌEN
Southeast of the city centre, this strolling garden (383-0074; www.suizenji.or.jp, in Japanese; 8-1 Suizenji-kōen; admission ¥400; 7.30am-6pm Mar-Nov, 8.30am-5pm Dec-Feb) represents the 53 stations of the Tōkaidō (the old road that linked Tokyo and Kyoto). The miniature Mt Fuji is instantly recognisable. The Kokindenju-no-ma Teahouse (Map; tea & Hosokawa sweets ¥500-600) building was moved here from the Kyoto Imperial Palace in 1912 and now has serene views across the ornamental lake. Originally it was where the young emperor was tutored in poetry.
HONMYŌ-JI
Northwest of the centre, on the hills above the river, is the temple and mausoleum of Katō Kiyomasa (Map), the architect of Kumamoto’s castle. A steep flight of 176 steps leads up to the mausoleum, designed to be at the same height as the castle’s donjon (fortified central tower). There’s also a treasure house (Map; 354-1411; 4-13-20 Hanazono; admission ¥300; 9am-5pm, closed Mon) next to the temple with Kiyomasa’s crown and other personal items.
Shimada Art Museum (; Map; 352-4597; 4-5-28 Shimazaki; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm Thu-Tue) is within walking distance of Honmyō-ji. It displays the work of Miyamoto Musashi, mainly calligraphy and scrolls.
WRITERS’ HOMES
In the city centre, behind Tsuruya department store, is writer Lafcadio Hearn’s former home (Map; 354-7842; 2-6 Ansei-machi; admission ¥200; 9.30am-4.30pm, closed Mon & 29 Dec–3 Jan); he was known to the Japanese as Koizumi Yakumo. Hearn also had a Japanese residence in Matsue (Click here).
The former home of famed Meiji-era novelist Sōseki Natsume is preserved as the Sōseki Memorial Hall (Map; 325-9127; 4-22 Tsubo-machi; admission ¥200; 9.30am-4.30pm, closed Mon). Sōseki lived here as an English teacher, but only for a few years. (For more on Sōseki, Click here.)
OTHER SIGHTS
Continue beyond the minshuku and love hotels until you reach the white Bussharito (a traditional stupa