Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [561]
Sleeping
The onsen ryokan at Kurokawa are undoubtedly worth paying for. They aren’t cheap, but this isn’t an experience you’ll have every day.
Aso Senomoto Youth Hostel (; 44-0157; www.jyh.gr.jp/aso/next.html; dm HI member/nonmember ¥2940/3540) Between Miyaji and Kurokawa Onsen, this friendly hostel has English information about hiking Kujū-san and other high peaks in the area. Breakfast and dinner are available.
Chaya-no-hara Campground (; 44-0220; campsite per person from ¥600) A little further down the road towards the resort is this place, which is essentially a sloping lush green paddock with a truly wonderful outlook.
Sanga Ryokan (; 44-0906; www.sanga-ryokan.com, in Japanese; r per person with 2 meals from ¥14,300; ) Several of the 15 delightful rooms at this romantic ryokan have private onsen attached. Exquisite kaiseki meals, attention to detail and heartfelt service make this a place to treat yourself to the Japanese art of hospitality.
Okyakuya Ryokan (; 44-0454; fax 44-0551; r per person with 2 meals from ¥12,500; ) Nearby is another noteworthy choice, and overlooks a serene garden. English is spoken at both ryokan, and a station pick-up service can be arranged.
Getting There & Away
Experiencing this area is most enjoyable by car. But there are also five daily buses between JR Aso Station and Kurokawa Onsen (¥960, one hour). The last bus back to Aso departs at 5.55pm, to Kumamoto at 8.30pm (¥1430, one hour) or Beppu at 7pm (¥2350, two hours).
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AMAKUSA ARCHIPELAGO
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South of the Shimabara Peninsula are the islands of the Amakusa-shotō. The islands were a stronghold of Christianity during Japan’s ‘Christian Century’ and the grinding poverty here was a major factor in the Shimabara Rebellion of 1637–38. It’s still one of the least developed regions of Japan.
Around the islands are opportunities for diving and dolphin-watching cruises. Hondo is the main town and has exhibition halls relating to the Christian era. Amakusa Youth Hostel (; 22-3085; dm HI member/nonmember ¥2783/3383) is about a 300m walk uphill from the bus terminal. Tamioka, where Nagasaki ferries berth, has castle ruins. Getting to the islands usually involves a ferry from various places in Nagasaki-ken or along the Kumamoto coast. Amakusa Five Bridges links the island directly with Misumi, southwest of Kumamoto.
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KAGOSHIMA-KEN
Kyūshū’s southernmost prefecture has a charm of its own. Beautiful, bayside Kagoshima city lies in the shadow of a highly active volcano, whose very presence cannot be separated from the local identity. People celebrate life here, reminded daily of its fragility. The fertile coastal plains of the Satsuma Peninsula lie to the south, and to the north, striking Kirishima-Yaku National Park, also with its string of volcanoes and superb hiking opportunities.
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KIRISHIMA-YAKU NATIONAL PARK
The day walk from Ebino-kōgen (not to be confused with the town of Ebino down on the plains) to the summits of a string of volcanoes is one of the finest hikes in Japan. It’s 15km from the summit of Karakuni-dake (1700m) to the summit of Takachiho-no-mine (1574m). If the peaks aren’t being lashed by thunderstorms or shrouded in fog, common during the rainy season (mid-May through June), the vistas are superb. Shorter walks include a lake stroll on the plateau, and if hiking isn’t an option, the windy mountain highways are great to drive. The area is known for its wild azaleas, hot springs and the impressive 75m waterfall, Senriga-taki, unimpressively dammed and shrouded by concrete reinforcements.
Orientation & Information
A centre at each end of the volcano walk has bilingual maps and hiking information.
Ebino-kōgen Eco Museum Centre (0984-33-3002; 9am-5pm) Has free