Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [562]
Takachiho-gawara Visitors Centre (0995-57-2505; 9am-5pm) Established to provide information on the local environment and wildlife.
Sights & Activities
EBINO PLATEAU WALKS
The Ebino-kōgen lake circuit is a relaxed 4km stroll around a series of volcanic lakes – Rokkannon Mi-ike is intensely cyan in colour. Across the road from the lake, Fudō-ike, at the base of Karakuni-dake, is a steaming jigoku. The stiffer climb to the 1700m summit of Karakuni-dake skirts the edge of the volcano’s deep crater before arriving at the high point on the eastern side. The panoramic view to the south is outstanding, taking in the perfectly circular caldera lake of Ōnami-ike, rounded Shinmoe-dake and the perfect cone of Takachiho-no-mine. On a clear day, you can see Kagoshima and the smoking cone of Sakurajima. Naka-dake is another nice half-day walk, and in May and June it offers good views of the Miyama-Kirishima azaleas. Friendly wild deer roam freely through the town of Ebino-kōgen and are happy to be photographed.
LONGER WALKS
The long views across the lunarlike terrain of volcano summits are truly otherworldly. If you are in good shape and have six or seven hours, you can continue from Karakuni-dake to Shishiko-dake, Shinmoe-dake, Naka-dake and Takachiho-gawara, from where you can make the ascent of Takachiho-no-mine. Close up, Takachiho is a formidable volcano with a huge, gaping crater. The whole trek goes above and below the treeline on a trail that can be muddy or dry, clear or foggy; some Kagoshima monks-in-training do this route daily!
If you miss the afternoon bus (3.49pm) from Takachiho-gawara to Kirishima-jingū, it’s a 7km walk down to the village shrine area, or a ¥1200 taxi ride. A taxi up to Ebino-kōgen is about ¥3750.
KIRISHIMA-JINGŪ
Picturesque, tangerine Kirishima-jingū (0995-57-0001) has a good vantage point. Though it dates from the 6th century, the present shrine was built in 1715. It is dedicated to Ninigi-no-mikoto, who, according to Kojiki (a historical book compiled in 712), made his legendary landing in Japan on the Takachiho-no-mine summit.
The shrine is accessible by bus (¥240, 15 minutes) from JR Kirishima-jingū Station. The festivals of Saitan-sai (1 January), Ota-ue-sai (mid-March) and the lantern festival of Kontō-sai (5 August) are worth seeing. If you’re a temple fan, visit Kirishima Higashi-jinja for ancient cedars and scenic views.
Sleeping & Eating
Ebino-kōgen village has good accommodation options, but few eateries. Most village shops close by 5pm. Stock up when you can.
Ebino-kōgen Campground & Lodge (0984-33-0800, 0984-35-1111; campsites/tent rental/lodge cabins per person from ¥800/1100/1130; ) A pretty stream runs through the middle of this delightful campground, 500m from the Eco-Museum Centre. It’s open year-round, but in July and August the price for the lodge cabins jumps to ¥6490.
Takachiho-gawara camping ground (0995-57-0996; campsite ¥1100; Jul & Aug; ) Tent rental with blankets and cooking utensils for five people costs ¥2760.
Shiratori Onsen (; 0984-33-1104; r per person from ¥2850; ) There are exquisite views from this delightful hillside onsen and rotemburo (¥300) on Rte 30 from Ebino town towards Ebino Kōgen. In autumn the trees are ablaze with the colours of kōyō (turning leaves).
Kirishima Jingū-mae Youth Hostel (0995-57-1188; dm HI member/nonmember ¥3200/3800; ) Southeast of Kirishima-jingū, this clean and comfy youth hostel maintains a midnight curfew, and offers breakfast (¥500) and dinner (¥1000).
Minshuku Kirishima-ji (0995-57-0272; r per person ¥4500) This basic but friendly six-room inn is close to the shrine and has been looking after LP readers for years. Breakfast is available (¥700) and the bathrooms are shared.
Karakuni-sō (0984-33-0650; fax 0984-33-4928; per person with 2 meals ¥8600, annexe house s/d/tr ¥5200/8200/9200) This small, attractive Ebino-kōgen ryokan has a wonderful