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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [565]

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of this world.

Festivals & Events

Sogadon-no-Kasayaki (Umbrella Burning Festival) One of Kagoshima’s more unusual events in late July. Boys burn umbrellas on the banks of Kōtsuki-gawa in honour of two brothers who used umbrellas as torches in one of Japan’s oldest revenge stories.

Isle of Fire Festival In late July on Sakurajima.

Ohara Festival Featuring folk dancing in the streets on 3 November; visitors are invited to join in.

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Saigō Takamori

Although he played a leading part in the Meiji Restoration in 1868, in 1877 Saigō Takamori had second thoughts about the curtailment of samurai power. This hesitation led to the ill-fated Satsuma Rebellion. During the rebellion, Kumamoto’s magnificent castle was incinerated and when defeat became inevitable, Saigō retreated to Kagoshima and committed seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment).

Despite his mixed status as both hero and villain of the Restoration, Saigō is a towering figure in the history of Japan. His square-headed features and bulky stature are instantly recognisable, and Kagoshima, like Ueno-kōen in Tokyo, has a famous Saigō statue (Map; Click here), as well as a memorial hall, in honour of the Samurai.

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Sleeping

Kagoshima has plenty of good-value places to stay. The station is a bit far from the action, so aim to stay towards Tenmonkan if you can.

BUDGET

Kagoshima Little Asia Guesthouse (Map; 251-8166; www.cheaphotelasia.com; Yamano Bldg, 2-20-8 Nishida; dm/s ¥1500/2500; ; JR Kagoshima) Good luck finding cheaper accommodation anywhere in Japan. It’s very basic, but clean and superfriendly and a mere stone’s throw from the station. There are even free bicycles (one hour), free internet and laundry facilities.

Hotel Ishihara-sō (Map; 254-4181; 4-14 Chūō-chō; s/d ¥3990/7980; JR Kagoshima-chuō) The clean and tidy rooms, presumably designed for patrons of the Satsuma restaurant downstairs, make for excellent cheap lodging close to the station.

Nakazono Ryokan (Map; 226-5125; 1-8 Yasui-chō; s/d/tr ¥4200/8400/11,970; ) This friendly Japanese Inn member has been looking after LP readers for years and will give you a taste of Kagoshima hospitality. The traditional inn is central, comfortable and filled with the personality of its keeper.

Hotel Gasthof (Map; 252-1401; www.gasthof.jp, in Japanese; 7-1 Chūō-chō; s/d/tw/tr ¥5565/8400/8925/12,600; ; JR Kagoshima-chuō) Old-world Europe meets urban Japan at this unusual 48-room hotel, with good-sized rooms and chunky wooden furniture. Near the station and with triple and interconnecting rooms, it’s a good choice for families.

Plaza Hotel Tenmonkan (Map; 222-3344; fax 222-9911; 7-8 Yamanokuchi-chō; s/d/tw with breakfast from ¥5700/10,300/11,000; ) Rooms are small but bright in this 224-room business hotel in an excellent location. The breakfast buffet is generous.

MIDRANGE

Sun Days Inn Kagoshima (Map; 227-5151; fax 227-4667; www.sundaysinn.com, in Japanese; 9-8 Yamanokuchi-chō; s/d/tw ¥6300/9300/10,300; ) Slick, modern and Euro-styled, offering excellent value. The rooms are compact, but the beds, showers and warm decor make up for it. The Deluxe, an oversized room with two double beds and a sofa, is ¥25,000. Rates are cheaper booked on the homepage, if you can read Japanese.

Chisun Inn Kagoshima (Map; 227-5611; fax 227-5612; www.solarehotels.com/english/chisun/inn-kagoshima/guestroom/detail.html; 1-3 Gofuku-chō; s/d ¥6800/12,000; ) Opposite Tenmonkan-dōri tram stop, this new hotel is easy to find and perfectly located. Rooms are tiny but fresh and there are bunk rooms for travellers with children, and free internet via LAN cable.

Lexton Hotel (Map; 222-0505; www.nisikawa.net/lexton/english; 4-20 Yamanokuchi-chō; s/d from ¥7350/11,550; ) Popular with wedding parties, this smart hotel is a little dated but still nice. Rooms are of a good size, arranged around an open, light-filled atrium and there is an onsen on site. Check the homepage for examples of interiors.

Blue Wave Kagoshima (224-3211; fax 224-3212; www.bluewaveinn.jp/kagoshima, in Japanese; 2-7 Yamanokuchi-chō; s/tw ¥7665/15,225;

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