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Onsen Hotel Nakahara Bessō (Map; 225-2800; fax 226-3688; 15-19 Terukuni-chō; r per person with/without 2 meals from ¥12,600/8400; ) This well-located, family-owned inn, opposite a lovely park, dates from 1904. Ignore its boxy exterior; inside you’ll find spacious Japanese-style rooms, a modern rotemburo, traditional artwork and a good Satsuma-ryōri restaurant.

Eating

Kagoshima’s climate is conducive to enjoying oneself. The JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station area and the alleys of Tenmonkan have an abundance of restaurants, many featuring Satsuma-ryōri regional cuisine. Try tonkotsu (pork ribs) seasoned with miso and black sugar) and satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cake flavoured with sake).

Ōshō (Map; 253-4728; 1-4 Chuō-machi; dishes ¥200-570; lunch & dinner) Just north of the station, you’ll find this simple eatery with nongreasy kara-age (fried chicken), fried rice, gyōza and soups – it’s tasty, fast and supercheap. Look for the picture menu board out the front.

Kumatora Ikka (Map; 219-3948; 2nd fl, Horie Bldg, 14-17 Sennichi-chō; dishes from ¥300; dinner, closed Mon) There’s a great atmosphere at this happy izakaya, festooned with an eclectic collection of Shōwa-period (1926–89) pop-culture memorabilia. Young Japanese come to hang out over a few rounds of beer and moreish comfort food. The bite-sized hitokuchi-gyōza are the best (20 pieces for ¥750!) and there’s plenty of other morsels to tempt. There’s no English sign, but there’s a dark wooden street frontage and a staircase leading upstairs. You can see the faces in the windows from the street.

Izakaya Wakana (Map; 286-1501; 2-21-21 Nishida-chō; dishes from ¥600; lunch & dinner) The Kagoshima-Chūō branch of this famous local eatery is a two-minute walk from the station’s West exit. For tasting, try the kushiage moriawase (barbeque skewer selection; five pieces ¥650) or miso oden moriawase (hotpot selection; four pieces, ¥700). Look for the red noren (doorway curtains).

Xiang Xiang (Map; 255-0468; 1-11 Chuō-machi; dishes from ¥735; lunch & dinner, closed Mon) Next door to Ōshō, you’ll find this tidy restaurant serving flavoursome, aromatic Vietnamese cuisine. Some staff speaks English and there’s an English menu.

Sunny Public Market (Map; 219-9550; 1-30 Higashi-sengoku-chō; dishes from ¥850; lunch & dinner) From the creators of the Wakana brand, this bright, open trattoria serves delicious European cuisine. The daily lunch special, a Western-styled obentō (Himawari yōfū bokkusu) is excellent value at ¥950 (¥1300 on weekends).

No No Budo (Map; 206-7585; 5th fl, Amu Plaza; lunch/dinner buffet ¥1480/1980; lunch & dinner; ) At Amu Plaza next to JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station you’ll find this fun all-you-can-eat buffet with healthy choices. There’s no English, but it’s self-serve.

Meigetsu (Map; 225-5174; 9-1 Sennichi-chō; meat for 2 from ¥3000; dinner) Reputedly the best yakiniku (Japanese do-it-yourself barbecue) in town at this bright, beery eatery in the heart of the entertainment district, off the Yamanokuchi main arcade. Look for the red-and-white 1980s styling. Ask for the Nimei-moriawase (500g meat selection for two, ¥3000) and barbecue away. Alternatively, sukiyaki is served upstairs.

Curryteria Sara (Map; 223-8240; 5-26 Higashi-sengoku-chō; curries from ¥1300; lunch & dinner, closed Mon) Delicious, vibrant black and red curries are the order of the day at this casual eatery easily spotted off Tenmonkan Arcade. Try the Kagoshima kuro-karee (black curry) made from black pork, local vegetables and spices (¥1350).

There’s always a rāmen debate in Japan, but in Tenmonkan, two reliable favourites are the bustling Tontoro (Map; 222-5857; 9-41 Yamanokuchi; rāmen dishes from ¥500; until late) and Wadaya (Map; 226-7773; 11-2 Higashi-sengoku-chō; bowls ¥630-800; lunch & dinner). Amu Plaza at JR Kagoshima-Chūō Station has good seated dining options on the upper floors and a fabulous basement-level food court.

Drinking

Tenmonkan is where it happens – shot